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Olokele Canyon, Island of Kauai. 

(2) 




GEOGRAPHY 


OF THE 

HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


BY 

CHARLES W. 

A 


BALDWIN 



REVISED 


AMERICAN BOOK COMPANY 


NEW YORK 


BOSTON 


CINCINNATI 


ATLANTA 


CHICAGO 









T)1L62>3 

3*5 

H2A 


Copyright, 1908, 1920, 1924, by 

CHARLES W. BALDWIN. 

Entered at Stationers’ Hall, London. 

GEOG. H. I. REV. 


w. p. 4 



MAY -7 IS24 

©C1A793191 


^VV9 





PREFACE 


<>> 

t 

f 


The first edition of the Geography of the Hawaiian Islands, 
while truly a home geography, has been revised and amplified 
in this new edition more fully to meet the requirements of this 
phase of geographical instruction. 

The course of study for the schools of the territory includes 
an outline in home geography, which all teachers are being 
especially trained to carry out. There are a number of excel¬ 
lent geographical texts that require but few changes to meet 
our island conditions. The geographies now in use in our 
schools devote considerable space to home geography. 

This text is designed to be used with grades below the fifth 
as a teacher’s desk book, the subject matter being presented 
topically. In grades beginning with the fifth upward it is to be 
in the hands of the pupil, and is to be correlated with all the 
work in geography. 

The author wishes to call particular attention to the index to 
the revised edition. It should add materially to the usefulness 
of the book. 

Like other texts in geography, this book is brief. Teachers 
should make liberal use of the references suggested on pages 
125 and 126 of the appendix. Many of these references are 
from “ Hawaii’s Young People,” of which copies are to be 
found in all the schools. The bound volumes of the “Hawaiian 
Annual ” (Thrum’s Almanac) are valuable, as is also the 
“Natural History of Hawaii,” by Professor W. A. Bryan, for¬ 
merly of the University of Hawaii. 

CHARLES W. BALDWIN. 


»' ** 




Honolulu. 


5 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

Introduction.7 

Oahu.34 

Hawaii.51 

Maui.87 

Molokai.105 

Lanai.108 

Kahoolawe.109 

Kauai .no 

Niihau.120 

Appendices : 

A. Capes, Bays, Mountains, Places, and Plantations . . 121 

B. Distances from Honolulu ...... 124 

C. Width of Channels.124 

D. Area and Population ........ 125 

E. References to Hawaiian Geography . . . . .125 

F. Pronunciation of Hawaiian Words.126 

Index.127 

MAPS 

PAGES 

Hawaiian Islands ..8 

Pacific Ocean.26 

Oahu ..32,36 

Hawaii.52, 56 

Maui.• 88, 92 

Molokai.106 

Kauai .- . . . no, m 

6 
























GEOGRAPHY OF THE HAWAIIAN 
ISLANDS 


INTRODUCTION 

The Hawaiian Islands are a part of an archipelago in the 
North Pacific, extending from the island of Hawaii on the 
extreme southeast to Ocean Island on the northwest — a dis¬ 
tance of about 2000 miles. With the exception of Necker 
Island, the islands northwest of the main grcup are coral atolls, 
many of them barely rising above the surface of the sea, being 
hardly more than reefs or sand banks. The largest of these 
islands is Midway Island, which is a low coral atoll nearly 18 
miles in circumference, inclosing several small islands. It is 
prominent as a cable station. These islands are probably the 
topmost peaks of a range of mountains extending northwest 
and southeast; they have been named as follows: Necker 
Island, French Frigates Shoal, Gardner Island, Dowsett Reef, 
Maro Reef, Laysan Island, Lisianski Island, Pearl and Hermes 
Reef, Midway Island, and Ocean Island. 1 

The Hawaiian Islands proper consist of a group of twelve 
islands lying between latitude i8° 55' and 23 0 north, and longi¬ 
tude 154 0 40' and 162° west. They are about 2100 miles from 
San Francisco, and 4700 miles from Manila. Eight of these 
islands—Hawaii, 2 Maui, Oahu, Kauai, Molokai, Lanai, Niihau, 
and Kahoolawe — are inhabited, and are named in the order of 
their size. The remainder — Molokini, Lehua, Kaula, and 
Nihoa (Bird Island) — are but barren rocks. 

1 “The Geographic Position of the Islands,” W. A. Bryan, Natural History oj 
Hawaii , pages 94-98. 

* For pronunciation of Hawaiian names, see Appendix F. 

7 



8 
















































9 

















































IO 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


The Hawaiian group, which formed along a fissure in the earth’s 
crust extending northwest and southeast, consists of craters built 
up from the bottom of the ocean by outpoured lava. 1 

Undoubtedly the volcanic fires first ceased on Kauai. As this 
island is greatly eroded and has more forms of plant life, it is called 
the oldest island of the group ; but some one of the other islands, 
even Hawaii which is still in the process of making, may have 
been the first to actually appear above the surface of the ocean. 

The surface features of the group are characterized by lofty 
mountains with gentle slopes, which are cut up by many gorges 
of great depth. The valleys of West Maui and Kauai are among 
the grandest in the world. The windward or northeast sides 
terminate in cliffs, which on Hawaii and Molokai are several 
thousand feet high in places. The upper slopes of the moun¬ 
tains are covered with a dense tropical growth of great beauty, 
which extends nearly to the sea on the windward side. 

Situated at the crossroads of the steamer routes across the 
Pacific, the Hawaiian Islands occupy a position of great com¬ 
mercial and strategic importance, and thus well merit the 
appellation “The Key of the Pacific.” 

Rock. — With the exception of some uplifted coral reefs, and 
a little sandstone and sedimentary rock, all the rock of the 
group is volcanic, consisting of basaltic lavas. 

This volcanic rock may be divided into two general classes: 
(i) completely fused lava (pahoehoe and aa), and (2) that which 
has been ejected in particles of various sizes and shapes (tufa). 
In many cases the tufa was in a partly fused mass, or contained 
cementing material which bound it into loose, friable rock. 

Pahoehoe and aa are similar in composition and may be parts 
of the same flow. Aa presents a rough, jagged appearance, 
while pahoehoe is smooth lava. Pahoehoe is the natural form 
for lava to take in cooling, and just why lava should take 
the aa shape it is difficult to state. 2 The first part of a 

1 “ Hawaiian Islands, How Formed,” C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii’s Young People, 
February, 1898 (1899 on outside cover). 

2 “Lava Flows of Hawaii” (pahoehoe and aa), C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii’s Young 
People, January, 1902. 


ROCK 


11 



lava flow is usually aa, the 
latter flow being pahoehoe. 

As pahoehoe presents a 
smooth, rolling surface, ani¬ 
mals can find a path upon 
it without difficulty, but not 
so with aa, which presents 
an impassable barrier. 

The sandstone, which is 
sea sand cemented by the 
lime of which it is partly com¬ 
posed, makes in some cases a 
very durable stone equal to 
that found anywhere. Some 
of the Anglican church Pahoehoe. 

buildings are made of this stone, which was quarried on 

the island of Oahu. 

The blue lava, rock, of which some of the finest buildings in 
Honolulu are constructed, is a solid, compact pahoehoe. 



Soil. — With the exception of a small percentage of vegetable 
mold, all the soil of the group is formed by the disintegration 
or weathering of lava rock. This soil may be divided into 




12 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


three classes: (i) lava soil; (2) tufa soil; and (3) sedimentary 
soil. 

Dark red soils are formed by the weathering of normal lavas 
(aa and pahoehoe) in a warm atmosphere with a small amount 
of rainfall; as in the regions about Makaweli on Kauai and 
Paia on Maui, and the uplands of Waialua on Oahu. These 
dark red soils are always good soils. 

We should naturally expect to find nearly all the soil of the 
group dark red, and this would undoubtedly be true, were it not 
for the fact that (1) a great deal of the original material has been 
covered up under the debris of the tufa cones which are so 
numerous in some localities, and that (2) normal lavas form 
yellow or grayish yellow soils when the weathering takes place 
where there is a heavy rainfall. 

While tufa has a common source with the other lava 
rock, it differs radically from it, due to changes caused by 
the action of steam and gases at the time it was ejected. 
Tufa weathers as light red and yellow soil. Regions covered 
by tufa soil are the districts of Honolulu, Lihue, and Hilo. 
These light red and yellow soils are not so good as the dark red 
soils. 

In localities subject to a heavy rainfall the grayish yellow soil, 
formed from normal lavas, is likely to have lost some of its 
ingredients, which have been dissolved in water and carried 
away; this usually forms a subsoil covered by vegetable mold, 
which is sometimes several feet in thickness, as in Olaa. Where 
forests have been cleared away, this subsoil is often exposed 
by the washing away of the surface layer, which accounts 
for the poor soil in some places on the windward side of the 
group, as Hanalei on Kauai, Huelo on Maui, and Kaneohe on 
Oahu. 

Sedimentary soils are found in the valley bottoms and along 
the lowlands of the coastal plain. As the sedimentary soils 
generally contain vegetable mold, they are usually of a brown 
color. They form the best soils of the group. Lahaina on 
Maui, the Ewa Plantation on Oahu, and Kekaha on Kauai are 
typical sedimentary soil regions. 


CLIMATE 


13 


The action of heat on our soil is to turn it red ; hence much of 
the soil of the group has been burned red by overflows of lava. 1 

Climate. — Owing to the trade winds which blow continuously 
for nine months in the year, and the currents which cool the 
ocean about the islands, the temperature of the group is io° 
lower than that of any other part of the world in the same 
latitude. 2 At sea level the temperature ranges from 6o° to 85°, 
with an average of about 75°, At an elevation of 1200 feet the 
temperature is 70°. 



Summit of Maun a Kea in Midsummer. 


The islands are exempt from cyclones or hurricanes, and 
thunderstorms are rare. During December, January, February, 
and March the southwest wind blows during the cessation of the 
trades. It is the storm wind known as Kona. 

As a rule there is a sharp contrast between the northeast or 
windward side, and the lee or southwest side of the various 
islands; the former being excessively rainy and the latter ex¬ 
tremely arid. 

1 “Lavas and Soils of the Hawaiian Islands,” Walter Maxwell. 

2 “Cold Current System of the Pacific,” Dr. Bishop, Hawaiian Annualy 1905, 
page 74. 




14 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


Owing to the height of the islands above sea level a great 
variety of climate may be found, ranging from torrid heat at 
sea level on the lee side of the group to a freezing temperature 
on the snow-capped summits of the highest mountains. 

On the whole, the climate, which is a remarkably equable one, 
is as nearly perfect as can be found anywhere in the world. An 
ideal climate, coupled with its tropical growth, has given the 
group the sobriquet, “ Paradise of the Pacific.” 

Vegetation. 1 — The upper mountain slopes are covered with 
a heavy forest growth, which reaches nearly to the seashore on 



At the Sea Beach in Kona. 


the windward side. At one time these forests extended much 
lower than at present, but they have been destroyed to a great 
extent by cattle and fires, or have given way to cane fields. 

The flora of the Hawaiian Islands may be divided into three 
groups: (i) indigenous plants, which mainly comprise the upper 
forest growth ; (2) plants that were brought from islands farther 
south by early inhabitants ; and (3) plants that were introduced 
after the islands were visited by Captain Cook in 1779. 

1 “Flora of the Group,” W. A. Bryan, Natural History of Hawaii , page 189. 







VEGETATION 


15 



Among the trees of the ancient forest there are a number of 
ornamental and timber woods, as koa, kauila, mamane, and ohia. 
From the koa, with infinite toil, the Hawaiians hollowed out their 
canoes, using the light wiliwili and hau wood, for the outrigger. 
The heavy, hard wood of the kauila furnished spear and 00 
handles and kapa beaters. From the fiber of the olona shrub, 
cord was made for fish lines and nets. 


Forest in Hawaii. 

The only woods from the original forest trees that are of any 
commercial value now are the koa (Hawaiian mahogany), which 
is used in the finest cabinet work, and ohia, which makes ex¬ 
cellent lumber for all hard wood purposes. A great many young 
sandalwood trees have sprung up in the forests, but not in suf¬ 
ficient quantities to warrant a revival of the trade which nearly 
resulted in their extermination. 

The plants introduced by the ancient Hawaiians form a very 
interesting group, as they not only determined the future agri¬ 
cultural pursuits of the group, but indicate the purpose and 
direction of the early voyages. Among these plants are the 




i6 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


breadfruit, coconut, banana, taro, sugar cane, ohia (so-called 
mountain apple), mulberry, hala, hau, kukui, milo, and kamani, 
which yielded food and material for cloth, rope, mats, and other 
domestic articles. 1 

The lower forests are composed of kukui (candle-nut tree), 
hau, and hala; the leaves of this last-named tree furnish the 
material from which are woven the mats and hats that are so 



Kukui and Hala on Waipio Cliff. 


common about the islands. On the lowlands near the beach 
or in the sand of the beach itself, groves of coconut grow. 

When the islands were discovered there were but few fruits 
and vegetables to be found. Of the fruits introduced many are 
now to be found growing wild, as the guava, orange, lime, mango, 
Cape gooseberry (poha), and others. 

Animals. 2 —At the time of Captain Cook’s visit, in 1779, hogs, 
dogs, mice, domestic fowls, lizards, and a few harmless insects 

1 “Introduced Plants,” W. A. Bryan, Natural History of Hawaii, page 231. 

2 “The Animal Life of the Group,” W. A. Bryan, Natural History of Hawaii , 
page 291. 






ANIMALS 


17 



Hookena Beach, Hawaii. 

were found, but by far the greater proportion of animals were 
birds, of which there were about seventy varieties — comprising 
a number of small forest birds, waterfowl, beach and sea birds. 

In 1793 Vancouver landed cattle, sheep, and goats ; and horses 
were brought later. Some of these animals are now found in a 
half-wild state on parts of the group. 

During the months from November to March flocks of ducks, 
plover, and curlew migrate to these shores from the northwest 
coast of America. Owing to the recession of the forests to the 
higher mountain slopes, the forest birds are fast disappearing. 
The mamo, from which the finest feathers were procured for the 
famous feather cloaks of the chiefs, has long been extinct. To 
replace the disappearing, insect-eating forest birds, a number of 
birds have been introduced, such as the mynahs, turtledoves, 
larks, rice birds, sparrows, and quail. 

On the leaves of forest trees and shrubs or in the shrubbery 
on the ground are found 341 species of land shells (achatinella). 
These achatinella are peculiar to the Hawaiian group, and excel 
in beauty of form and color the land shells of any other part of 
the world. The largest number are found on the island of Oahu. 1 

1 “Land Shells of the Hawaiian Islands,” D. D. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young 
People , May, 1900. 






i 8 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


Experiment Stations. — Territorial and Federal experiment 
stations have been established in Honolulu with branch stations 
on the other islands. Through the territorial Bureau of Agri¬ 
culture and Forestry denuded tracts have been reforested and 
insect pests curbed, while the chief work of the Federal Govern¬ 
ment, through the United States Experiment Station, has been 
the introduction and development of new plants of economic 
value. The sugar planters also have an experiment station, 
which makes a special study of all that pertains to sugar cane. 

Through the indiscriminate introduction of plants, fruit, and 
seeds from other parts of the world, many injurious blights and 
insects have been brought into the territory. Owing to the 
mild nature of the climate, these have multiplied very rapidly, 
threatening to destroy many forms of plant life, including some 
of great economic value. However by a world-wide search the 
natural insect enemies of these pests have been found, and so 
they have been kept in check. The most noted case of the in¬ 
troduction of beneficial insects was that of the egg-parasite for 
the leaf hopper, when this pest menaced the sugar industry. 
The most destructive insects are the cottony cushion scale, cane 
leaf hopper, Mediterranean fruit fly, melon fly, Japanese beetle, 
army worm, cane borer, and corn leaf hopper. 12 

Industries. — The sugar output includes 80 per cent of the 
value of the industries of the group, which are almost entirely 
agricultural. There are now about fifty plantations on the 
islands, which in 1920 had an output of 556,871 tons of sugar. 
All of this sugar, with the exception of a small part, is sent as 
raw sugar to San Francisco, Philadelphia, or New York to be 
refined, and thus, undoubtedly, some of it returns to Hawaii. 
One of the mills refines its output of sugar by a special process. 
The greater part of this refined product is exported. Some of 
the mills make for home consumption a washed sugar which is 
known as brown sugar. 


1 “Important Economic Insects,” W. A. Bryan, Natural History of Hawaii , 
pages 379 and 390. 

2 “Introduction of Beneficial Insects in Hawaii,” Hawaiian Annual , 1915, page 


128 . 


INDUSTRIES 


19 





Planting Cane Field. 


Steam Plows at Work. 


Cutting Cane. 













20 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 



Loading Cane Cars. 



Unloading Cane on Carrier. 








INDUSTRIES 


21 



Cane Crushing Machinery. 



Mill Interior — Bagging Sugar. 


GEOG. H. I. REV. — 2 













22 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


Hawaii is, no doubt, the most advanced sugar-producing coun¬ 
try of the world. While this is due in part to the introduction 
of improved methods of harvesting and milling, the result has 
been chiefly brought about by the efforts of the Hawaiian Sugar 
Planters’ Association Experiment Station in developing better va¬ 
rieties, and even originating new canes, besides devising the best 
methods for the propagation and cultivation of the sugar cane. 

This experiment station, which is located in Honolulu, is one 
of the most efficiently equipped and organized experimental 
stations of its kind in the world. 

The sugar mills are the most interesting features of the 
plantations: with all their wonderful processes from the human¬ 
like unloaders, and huge rollers, which press the juice from the 
cane stalks, to the swiftly whirling centrifugals where the sugar 
making process is completed. 

Most of the plantations have complete systems of railway 
tracks which connect the mills with the fields and landings. 
Where water is plentiful, as on the windward side of Hawaii, 
the cane is flumed to the mill. When the mountain slope is 
abrupt, gravity roads and overhead trolley cables are used. 

Water has been conveyed through miles of irrigation aque¬ 
ducts to dry sections, so that nearly all of the arable land of the 
group is now under cultivation. These ditches, traversing as 
they do the most inaccessible regions of the group, represent 
great feats of engineering. The water is carried over the 
gulches through huge siphon pipes, and along inaccessible 
precipices in a series of tunnels within the rock face of the 
cliff. The big ditches have a daily capacity varying from 
30,000,000 to 140,000,000 gallons of water. 

In places wells have been sunk and water forced by powerful 
pumps through long lines of pipe to higher levels. In other 
sections water has been secured by tunneling the mountains. 

With the exception of the cane raised on the windward side of 
the island of Hawaii, all of the sugar cane of the group is grown 
by irrigation; the northeast side of Hawaii has sufficient rain¬ 
fall to raise cane without irrigation. 1 

1 “The Sugar Industry,” W. A. Bryan, Natural History of Hawaii , page 271. 


INDUSTRIES 


23 



Preparing Rice Field. 



Coffee Orchard, 














24 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 



Pineapple Field. 



Pineapple Cannery. 









MANUFACTURING 


2 5 


The pineapple industry comes next to sugar in the area of 
production and value. The pineapple plant grows best in the 
Hawaiian Islands at an elevation of from 600 to 1200 feet above 
sea level, thus utilizing land that is too high for sugar cane. It 
requires no irrigation because it takes moisture from the air, 
and thus it is adapted to sections which have a moderate amount 
of rainfall. There are canneries on the larger islands where a 
very fine grade of pineapple is put up. 

Rice is grown on the lowlands near the sea and in the valleys. This 
cereal is raised chiefly by Chinese, who as a rule employ the most primitive 
methods in cultivating, harvesting, and milling their crops. At one time 
Hawaiian rice commanded the highest market price, but, owing to improper 
methods of caring for the crop, it has lost in quality and now undersells 
Japanese rice. 

Coffee grows well in sheltered parts of the group, yielding a berry equal 
to the best Java or Mocha, which is known as Kona coffee. Owing to the 
low market price, many of the coffee orchards have been abandoned. Cof¬ 
fee is raised chiefly on the island of Hawaii. Tobacco, sisal, oranges, and 
limes are grown, and bee culture is carried on in places. 

Bananas, of which there are many varieties, grow almost anywhere, re¬ 
quiring but little care or cultivation. The variety known as “ Chinese 
Banana ” is the only one grown for export. Plantains, which are palatable 
and nutritious when cooked, are cultivated for domestic use only. The 
banana plantations of the group are chiefly located on Oahu. 

The lands of the group not used for agricultural purposes are occupied by 
cattle and sheep ranches. 

The ocean about the islands abounds in fish. In artificial ponds along 
the shore mullet are raised. 

Manufacturing. — Hawaii does not do much manufacturing 
because she has neither coal nor raw materials. The plantations 
use bagasse for fuel. There are iron foundries which make 
castings for sugar mills. Electrically driven machine shops are 
found in the larger mills, so complete that they can take care 
of all the repair work and even fashion from the rough castings 
the huge rollers that are used for crushing the cane stalks. 

In Honolulu there are extensive fertilizer works where the proper mixtures 
are made for growing the sugar cane crop. 

Lime is made in Honolulu, and one of the plantations manufactures Port¬ 
land cement. Other plantations make needed articles from mill by-products, 



26 









































































27 




































































28 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


such as paper from bagasse, denatured alcohol from mill refuse, and stock 
food from molasses and algaroba bean meal. The paper is used for 
mulching in canefields where there is a heavy rainfall. The alcohol is 
manufactured for commercial purposes as well as for use in the mill, 
where it takes the place of gasoline. 

Commerce. — Nearly all of the great trans-Pacific lines of 
mail and passenger steamships plying between Pacific ports, 
China and Japan, New Zealand and Australia, make Honolulu 
a regular port of call for coal, fuel-oil, water, and provisions; 
for the same reason the transports sailing between San Francisco, 
Seattle, and the Philippines make it a halfway station, as do 
the steamship routes passing through the Panama Canal bound 
for Chinese, Japanese, or Siberian ports. 

Besides these through steamers there are direct lines of passenger and 
freight boats plying between island ports and San Francisco. Also, a large 
fleet of freighters brings breadstuffs, grain, oil, machinery, and manufactured 
articles from Pacific and Atlantic ports, lumber from Puget Sound, coal 
from Newcastle, Nanaimo, and Japan, and nitrates from Chile. 

Oahu is the site for an array of powerful wireless telegraph stations, whose 
purpose is to relay messages across the Pacific Ocean. Some of these are 
a part of the military and naval defence system for the island of Oahu, the 
others are for commercial use. An inter-island wireless system connects 
the larger islands. One of the Pacific cable lines lands at Waikiki, on Oahu, 
where it is connected with Honolulu. This is a relay station of the Com¬ 
mercial Pacific Cable Company, an American concern. 

History. — The Hawaiians are Polynesians, who came from the 
southeastern Asian archipelago, gradually spreading throughout 
the islands of the South Pacific and finally reaching Samoa. The 
first migrations to Hawaii were probably about the sixth century 
from the Society Islands. These early people were bold, skillful 
seamen, sailing by the stars. They built large double canoes 
capable of carrying provisions for a long voyage. Voyages 
were frequently made between Hawaii and Samoa, and between 
Hawaii and Tahiti, whence the population was increased and 
new plants and animals introduced. After a time communica¬ 
tion with the south ceased, and then for several centuries the 
group was cut off from the rest of the world. 


HISTORY 


29 


In X 55 S the Spanish visited the group, but kept their discovery secret. 
In 1778 Captain Cook found the islands, and made their existence known 
to the world. He named them Sandwich Islands for his patron, the Earl 
of Sandwich. Cook first landed at Waimea on Kauai; on a later visit 
he was killed in a quarrel with the natives at Kaawaloa in Kealakekua Bay 
on Hawaii. 

In 1795 Kamehameha, king of Hawaii, united the Windward Islands 
under one head by the conquest of Oahu; and in 1810 Kauai was formally 
ceded to him by Kaumualii. Thus the group, which had previously been 
ruled over by a number of independent petty chiefs, was finally united 
under one head. The Kamehameha dynasty continued as rulers until 1874 
when by popular election Kalakaua came to the throne. 

In 1819 idolatry was abolished, and in 1820 American missionaries 
arrived. They immediately reduced the language to writing, organized 
the present school system, and were actively instrumental in creating a 
constitution and establishing laws. 

In 1876 a reciprocity treaty 1 was concluded with the United States, 
by which, for the cession of Pearl Harbor, sugar was admitted free of duty 
to the United States. This immediately gave a tremendous impetus to the 
sugar industry, and caused the country to prosper to a greater degree than 
ever before; and it was the chief factor in making possible the annexation 
of the Hawaiian Islands later. 

Upon King Kalakaua’s death, Queen Liliuokalani came to the throne 
in 1891. About two years after her accession to the throne, she attempted 
to force a new constitution on the people restoring the old powers of royalty. 
This resulted in an uprising, when the queen was deposed and a provisional 
government established. 

Upon the failure to secure annexation to the United States 
through the opposition of President Cleveland, the Republic of 
Hawaii was organized July 4, 1894, with Sanford B. Dole as 
President. On the 12th of August, 1898, annexation to the 
United States was finally accomplished. Two years later, on 
June 14, 1900, Congress passed the Organic Act which made the 

1 Reciprocity Treaty : — By the terms of the first treaty, passed by Congress 
in 1875 an d ratified by the Hawaiian Legislature in 1876, Hawaii agreed not to cede 
any port or territory to any other government as long as the treaty lasted, and. 
further, to allow the United States to import free of duty about everything it manu¬ 
factured or produced except drugs and liquor. In return Hawaii could send raw 
sugar, rice, and a few other things produced at that time to the United States free 
of duty. In 1887, a new treaty was passed with an added clause which gave the 
United States the exclusive use of Pearl Harbor for a naval coaling and repair 
station. 


30 


THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS 


Hawaiian Islands a Territory of the United States. This “Act” 
gave Hawaii the same form of government as other territories, 
with the exception that, owing to its distance from the central 
seat of government, the legislative and executive powers are less 
strictly drawn. 

Population. — In 1920 the total population of the group was 
255,912. When the islands were discovered, the population 
was probably about 250,000; in 1878, it was 57,985. The fol¬ 
lowing years show a rapid increase in population, brought about 
by importation of laborers to meet the growing needs of the 
planters, due to the impetus given to the sugar industry by the 
reciprocity treaty. These laborers were brought in under the 
contract system and were chiefly Chinese, Japanese, and Portu¬ 
guese. 

Of the present population about three fifths are Asiatics; less than one 
sixth are Hawaiians and those of Hawaiian extraction; the balance, about 
one fourth, is made up of Americans, Porto Ricans, Portuguese and other 
Europeans. The greater part of this latter division consists of Portuguese 
and Americans, about evenly divided. 

Government. 1 — The legislative department consists of a sen¬ 
ate and a house of representatives. Senators are elected for 
four years and representatives for two years. The sessions of 
the legislature are biennial. 

The executive branch of the government includes a governor, secretary, 
superintendent of public works, commissioner of public lands, auditor, 
treasurer, attorney-general, high sheriff, tax assessor, surveyor, and superin¬ 
tendent of public instruction. Of the foregoing the governor and secretary 
are appointed by the President, with the approval of the Senate of the 
United States. The other officials are appointed by the governor, with the 
approval of the Territorial senate. 

The judicial department comprises a supreme court, and circuit and 
district courts. The judges of the supreme and circuit courts receive their 
appointments from the President, with the approval of the Senate of the 
United States, while the district justices are appointed by the chief justice. 

The Federal Government maintains a district court, district attorney, 
marshal, collector of customs, and collector of internal revenue; also an 

1 “Synopsis of the Government of the Territory of Hawaii,” Hawaii's Young 
People, October, 1907. “Government of the United States and Hawaii,” Hawaii 
Educational Review, Jan. and Feb. 1920. 


GOVERNMENT 31 

immigration station, a quarantine station, a weather bureau, and an experi¬ 
ment station. 

The Territory elects a delegate to the Congress of the United States, 
who has a seat in the House of Representatives, but no vote. 

The Territory is divided into five counties: Hawaii, Maui, City and 
County of Honolulu, Kauai, and Kalawao. Maui includes Lanai, Kahoo- 
lawe, and Molokai, except Kalawao County, and Honolulu includes Mid¬ 
way Island, while Kauai includes Niihau. 

Education. — Education is compulsory, free, and universal. 
The Department of Public Instruction consists of a superin¬ 
tendent and six commissioners, who have control of all educa¬ 
tional affairs, public and private, throughout the group. The 
commissioners are selected to represent the different islands as 
follows, two each being chosen from Oahu and Hawaii, and 
one each from Maui and Kauai. Supervising principals report 
regularly concerning the work of the schools. 

There is a thoroughly equipped normal school in Honolulu, 
which includes a training school with a full corps of critic teachers. 
High schools are maintained at Honolulu and on Hawaii, Maui, 
and Kauai, and industrial schools for boys at Lahainaluna on 
Maui, and at Waialee, near Kahuku on Oahu. 

A College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts (University of 
Hawaii), established by the Territory at Honolulu in 1908, is 
maintained jointly by the Territory and the Federal Government. 

Besides the public schools there are a number of excellent denominational 
schools; as Oahu College, the Kamehameha Schools, St. Louis College, 
Mid-Pacific Institute, Anglican Church Schools, Convent of Sacred Heart, 
and Honolulu Military Academy. 

Oahu College, which is situated at Punahou in the suburbs of Honolulu 
in parklike grounds, is the most thoroughly equipped school in the Territory. 
The curriculum of this school includes elementary grades as well as a year of 
university studies. 

The Kamehameha Schools, which were handsomely endowed by the 
late Bernice Pauahi Bishop, include boys’ and girls’ schools, which are. 
fully equipped for manual work. The boys’ department comprises a course 
in military training. 

The Mid-Pacific Institute, which includes boys’ (Mills) and girls’ (Kawa- 
iahao Seminary) departments, is well situated in Manoa Valley. 

The Anglican Church Schools, consisting of St. Andrew’s Priory for girls 
and Iolani College for boys, are located in the Cathedral grounds. 


I 58 !0 



I 58°0 


21*40 


21*30 


21*20 


I 5 8* 10 


15 8 0 



3 2 




























33 




























OAHU 


Physical Features. — The island of Oahu lies midway between 
Kauai and Maui. It contains 598 square miles and is the third 
in size of the Hawaiian Islands. 

In general outline this island resembles a four-sided figure, 
the northeast and southwest sides being parallel. The points of 
the figure are Kahuku on the northeast, Kaena on the northwest, 
Barber’s Point on the southwest, and Makapuu on the southeast. 

The shore line of Oahu is much more irregular than that of 
the other islands of the group. It is this feature which gives 



Copyright, 1904, by Rice and Perkins. 


Honolulu Harbor. 

the island its prominence as the most important one in the 
group; for excellent harbors have been thus afforded. On the 
south there is the bay on which is situated Honolulu, the capital 
and chief commercial city of the Territory, and Pearl Harbor. 

On the windward side of the island there is the deep inlet at 
the mouth of the Kahana Valley, and Kaneohe Bay; this latter 
is inclosed on one side by Mokapu Point and on the other by 
the Kualoa headland. The so-called Waialua Bay on the north¬ 
west is hardly more than an open roadstead. 

More coral is found about Oahu than about the other islands. 
Along the windward and lee shores of the island there are ex¬ 
tensive growing coral reefs, and a large portion of the narrow 

34 




PHYSICAL FEATURES 


35 


coastal plain which surrounds Oahu, with the exception of the 
Kaena Point and Makapuu Point regions, is composed of uplifted 
coral reefs. Honolulu is built on one of these uplifted reefs. 

At one time the island of Oahu was deeply submerged (800 
or 700 feet) and then uplifted (150 or 300 feet). The coral reefs 
were built while the island was depressed, the subsequent eleva¬ 
tion bringing them to the surface. 

The fact that the island of Oahu has been depressed helps 
us to explain some of its features: thus Kaneohe Bay is a sunken 
region; Kahana Bay was the mouth of the valley at one time; 
Pearl Lochs may be submerged valleys, though undoubtedly 
the immense amount of fresh water which escapes beneath the 
surface in this region helped keep the passageways open by pre¬ 
venting the building of the coral, and so played an important 
part in the formation of the Lochs. 

Honolulu Harbor was formed by the coral reef which extended 
across the entrance, an opening being left in the reef for the 
escape of the fresh water of the Nuuanu and adjoining streams. 
This channel has been deepened by dredging, and now forms the 
passageway at the entrance of the harbor. The coral has also 
built across the entrance to Kaneohe Bay, leaving two narrow 
but deep openings by which vessels can enter. The interior of the 
bay is filled with coral, and is navigable only for small-sized craft. 

There are a number of small islands across the entrance to 
Kaneohe Bay, which are undoubtedly summits of sunken areas. 
Mokolii near Kualoa Point is the largest of these islands. The 
islands off Waimanalo are of a similar formation. 

Pearl Harbor. — Pearl Harbor consists of a nearly land¬ 
locked body of water which is separated into two main divisions, 
East and West Lochs, by a long, low peninsula. The East 
Loch, which is the larger, is in turn divided by what is known 
as the “ Peninsula,” its western section forming the Middle 
Loch. Just within the passageway to the East Loch is Ford’s 
Island, which, with a part of the eastern shore opposite, is the 
site for the naval station. The passageway and a portion of 
the eastern section of the harbor have been dredged so that the 
largest ships may enter. 



COPYRIGHT 1907 BY WT.POPE 



36 







37 


t 






3» 


OAHU 


Mountains. — The island of Oahu consists of two parallel 
ranges of mountains: the Koolau range extending along the 
eastern side, and the Waianae range along the southwestern 
side. At one time these two ranges constituted separate islands, 
the space between them having been filled by lava flows from the 
Koolau range, and finally by wash from both ranges. 

Both of these ranges have been denuded by cattle of forest 
trees, except on the higher slopes. However, the upper slopes 
have now been made forest reserves and are being reforested. 

Waianae Range. — The Waianae range is much older than the 
other; it is probably as old as Waialeale of Kauai. The high¬ 
est point of Oahu is in this range — Kaala, 4030 feet above sea 
level. Originally this range was much higher than it is at present, 
and probably consisted of a single dome which had very much 
the exterior appearance of Haleakala; but it has been washed 
down and cut up by erosion until now only the skeleton of the 
former mountain remains. 

The range is broken midway by the Waianae gap, through 
which a trail passes to the site of the Waianae Plantation. 

At first sight it would appear that while the erosion on the 
southwest slopes of this range has been very extensive, compara¬ 
tively little has taken place on the northeast; but later obser¬ 
vation will show that there has been fully as much on this side, 
but that the valleys and ridges so formed have been buried out 
of sight beneath the lava flows from the Koolau range, and 
later by wash from that range. 

The Koolau Range. — The Koolau Mountains of Oahu are the 
longest of our island ranges, extending from Makapuu Point to 
Kahuku, a distance of 37 miles. The southern end of the range 
terminates abruptly in Makapuu Point, the base of which is 
washed by the sea, but the northern end spreads out in several 
ridges that terminate in cliffs overlooking the lowlands be¬ 
tween Kahuku and Waimea Valley. Konahuanui, 3105 feet 
high, and Lanihuli, 2775 feet high, are the highest peaks. 

The range is broken by three gaps of erosion, at the head of 
the Nuuanu, Kalihi, and Kaukonahua 1 gulches. At the Nuuanu 
1 The Kaukonahua gulch is the one that leads up from Wahiawa. 


MOUNTAINS 


39 


gap (the Pali), a fine road has been constructed, connecting 
Honolulu with the Koolau side of the island. The trails in 
the Kalihi and Kaukonahua gaps are seldom used now, though 
in ancient times they were frequently traveled by the natives in 
passing from one side of the island to the other. 

As the Koolau range is stretched directly across the course of 
the trade wind, there has been a very heavy rainfall on the 
windward side of the island, and consequently great erosion. 



The Pali. 


So great has the erosion been that the ridges dividing the dif¬ 
ferent valleys are hardly visible in many places, leaving an un¬ 
broken stretch of pali from 1000 to 2000 feet high. Such is the 
case back of Kailua and Kaneohe. The formation is so un¬ 
usual here that it has been often accounted for by the theory 
that this part of the island was once a crater, the northeast rim 
of which slid off into the sea. 

The scenery on the windward side of this range is very grand, 
being somewhat similar to that on the north of Kauai. 




40 


OAHU 


The lee side of the Koolau range may be divided into two 
parts — that which is protected by the Waianae range, and that 
portion lying back of Honolulu which is exposed to the Kona 
storms; the former is not cut up by erosion to any extent, but 
the latter contains many deep gulches, among which are Manoa, 
Nuuanu, and Kalihi, which have become important suburban 
areas of the city of Honolulu. These gulches are all fine ex¬ 
amples of erosion, the streams having worn their way back to the 
core of the mountain; at Nuuanu the back ridge has been cut 
through, forming the gap at the Pali. 

Central Plain of Oahu. — The plain between the mountain 
ranges is 800 feet high at its highest point, near Wahiawa. The 
water north of the divide flows to Waialua and that south to 
Pearl Harbor. So the streams from both slopes of the mountain 
turn at right angles, flowing either towards Waialua or Pearl 
Harbor. This central plain which, not long ago, was not much 
more than a pasture, presents to-day, with its well-equipped 
military posts, waving fields of sugar cane and endless rows of 
growing pineapples, a sharp contrast to what it was then. This 
change has been brought about by water development: artesian 
water is pumped from wells along the sea coast; a huge dam was 
built across a deep gulch to store flood waters; and a mountain 
range was pierced to tap the streams on the other side. 

Tufa Cones. — Near Honolulu there are a number of tufa 
cones which not only play an important part in the general 
topography of the country, but are of historic interest as well. 
The most important of these are: Koko Head, Diamond Head, 
Punchbowl, and the Salt Lake Crater (Aliapaakai). These 
cones are composed of cinders and tufa; the eruptions which 
formed them were probably of very short duration. 

Diamond Head is a picturesque as well as a prominent feature 
of the landscape. This interesting crater is in a very good state 
of preservation, the inclosing rim being intact except in one 
spot on the western side, and its bowl is still unfilled. It is now 
a part of the system of fortifications which defend the entrance 
to the harbor of Honolulu, and has been named the “ Gibraltar 
of the Pacific.” 


DRAINAGE 


41 


Punchbowl (just back of Honolulu) is much older than 
Diamond Head, its crater being almost entirely filled with 
debris washed from the sides. The material thrown from this 
cone thickly covers the surface of the coastal plain upon which 
the main part of the city stands. Punchbowl was the site of a 
battery of cannon placed there by Kamehameha I to defend 
the town. These guns have now been removed. 

The Salt Lake Crater (east of Pearl Harbor) is a twin cone. 
In the bowl of the larger cone there is a salt lake which is sup¬ 
posed to be connected with the sea. During dry times a thick 
crust of salt forms on the surface of this lake. The other cone 
contained a fresh-water pond, but this has been drained away 
and the bowl planted with sugar cane. 

The peculiar black sand which is so commonly found about the 
city came from the Tantalus series of tufa cones, upon which 
there are now a number of suburban residences. 

Drainage and Water Development. — Owing to the nature 
and arrangement of its mountain ranges, Oahu is not supplied 
with as many or as large running streams of water as are found 
on the other islands. Except in times of southerly storms, the 
rainfall on the Waianae range is not great, as the wind is first 
intercepted by the Koolau range; so that there are only a few 
small streams on this part of the island. The trade wind carries 
the heavy rainfall of the Koolau range over the top to a part of 
the lee slope. Owing to the gradual slope and deep valley heads 
on this side, a large part of this rainfall is conserved, reappear¬ 
ing lower down as springs or underground streams. 

Artesian Wells. — The fact that a great deal of fresh water 
was escaping at sea level along the south shore led to the dis¬ 
covery of the artesian storage basin of Oahu, which has played 
such an important part in the industrial development of the 
island and in the growth of the city of Honolulu. The first well 
was sunk in 1897 at Honouliuli, not far from the Ewa Mill. This 
was followed by borings in Honolulu which gave a fine flow of 
water. Immediately a great many wells were sunk, some of 
which supplied water for the city. Now there are about 500 
wells at various places on the coastal plain between Diamond 


42 


OAHU 


Head and Kahuku. The water in these wells does not rise 
higher than 42 feet above sea level in Honolulu. In dry times 
the general level in the wells falls. Artesian water is found on 
the lowlands of the larger islands, but the flowing wells, or 
gushers, are peculiar to Oahu and to Kealia on Kauai. The 
plantations use powerful pumps to force this artesian water 
through miles of gigantic pipes to the higher fields. 

The discovery of this artesian water gave an immediate stim¬ 
ulus to the rice industry, and led to the establishment of the ex¬ 
tensive sugar estates on the coastal plain of Oahu. 

Waiahole Tunnel. — The Waiahole tunnel, which pierces the 
Koolau range at a point opposite Waiahole, taps the streams on 
the windward side of Oahu, bringing the water on to the high 
lands of the central plain above Waipahu. 

An immense amount of water was encountered in the mountain, 
which, while it added to the supply, greatly hampered the work¬ 
men and increased the difficulties of the engineer in charge. To 
illustrate the magnitude of the work, there are twenty-seven 
intake tunnels feeding into the main tunnel on the Waiahole 
side and extending as far as Kahana. The tunnel has a capacity 
of one hundred and twenty million gallons daily, but it has never 
carried more than half of this amount. 

Wahiawa Dam. — To supply the fields on the north section 
of the central plain above Waialua with water, a huge dam was 
constructed across the junction of the north and south forks 
of the Kaukonahua gulch at Wahiawa. When the dam is filled 
the water backs up in the gulches, forming a lake which extends 
four miles inland. 

Industries. — Four of the sugar plantations 1 of Oahu, 
Waipahu, Ewa, Waialua, and Aiea, are among the largest in 
the group. All of these are well-kept sugar estates with fine 
types of mills. Of those named Ewa Mill is, perhaps, the most 
noted as it is often visited. As the plantations of Oahu depend 
largely upon artesian wells for their water supply, very little of 
the cane is flumed, but it is carried to the mills by a system of 
both permanent and portable tracks. 

1 See Appendix A for list of plantations. 


INDUSTRIES 


43 



The Oahu Sugar Company at Waipahu is a finely equipped 
plantation, the second largest in the Territory. Its cane fields 
extend from the sea coast well up on the southern section of the 
central plain. The Waiahole tunnel supplies the higher fields 
with water. 

The Ewa Plantation occupies the low, flat lands on the west 
side of Pearl Lochs and above Barber’s Point, which is an ele¬ 
vated coral reef covered by wash from the highlands. The soil 


Waipahu Sugar Mill. 

is particularly well adapted for cane growing, the average yield 
per acre being greater than that of any other plantation on the 
islands. The entire water supply is from artesian wells. 

The Waialua Agricultural Company includes all of the northern 
section of the central plain, its fields reaching up close to Wahiawa 
and on the opposite side to the United States Military Reserva¬ 
tion at Leilehua. The cane on the uplands is irrigated from the 
Wahiawa Dam. 

The Honolulu Plantation Company at Aiea has a refining 
plant and so completes the manufacture of sugar in its own mill. 



44 


OAHU 


The entire crop is refined and then exported. The cane fields of 
this plantation reach to the suburbs of Honolulu. 

The Waianae Plantation occupies two of the broad valleys on 
the lee side of the Waianae range. 

Kahuku is on the north end of Oahuthe cane planted at the 
Mormon settlement at Laie is ground here. 

The Waimanalo Plantation is a small one occupying a flat 
near the southwest end of the island. 



Rice Fields at Moanalua. Koolau Range in Background. 


On the lowlands about Honolulu and Pearl Harbor a great deal 
of rice is grown. On the windward side of the island it is the 
chief industry, the narrow coastal plain of Koolauloa and Koo- 
laupoko being occupied by an almost unbroken stretch of rice 
fields. 

The central plain of Oahu is well adapted for the growth of 
pineapples, which are planted extensively at Wahiawa and above 
Pearl City. Some of the pines are canned on the ground, but 
the larger part are sent to the factories in Honolulu. There 
are also many pineapple fields on the windward side of the island 
in the region about Kaneohe and at Ahuimanu. At the latter 
place there is a model factory near the shore which is visited as 
one of the points of interest on the round-the-island trip. 

The pineapple canneries in Honolulu are located near the rail¬ 
road depot. As the pineapple crop has a way of ripening all 
at once, a great many carloads of ripe fruit come from the 
fields to the cannery every day, which to be of the best quality 
must be put up in cans immediately. These factories are very 
large, perhaps the largest canneries in the world. 




TRANSPORTATION AND COMMUNICATION 


45 

Banana plantations are located at Mokuleia and in the valleys about 
Honolulu. 

There is a lime-making plant in Honolulu which manufactures lime from 
coral rock. Most of the output from this factory is sent to the plantations, 
where it is used extensively as a fertilizer. 

The lands of Oahu not utilized for agriculture are devoted to cattle rais¬ 
ing. There are a number of small ranches on different parts of the island. 

Fishing. — Owing to the shallow water along the shore and the number 
of protected bays and coves, there are many fish ponds about Oahu. Most 
of the ponds were built in ancient times; in some cases a wall was built 
across the entrance to a small bay, but more often semicircular walls were 
made inclosing a portion of sea water. The walls were loosely constructed 
of stones to allow free access to the sea water, and were provided with gates 
so that the fish could be driven into the ponds. 

This industry has almost entirely passed into the hands of Chinese, who 
have repaired the walls of disused ponds and carry on the industry as they 
were taught by the Hawaiians. Mullet (ama-ama) are chiefly raised in 
these ponds, though awa and other small fish breed there also. When a 
part of the fish are large enough, they are caught in nets. The ponds are 
allowed to rest until more fish are ready to be caught. 

The deep-sea fishing is carried on by Japanese. They are excellent 
fishermen and hardy sailors, sometimes making long voyages in their small 
sampans to the fishing grounds of the northwest islands. The length of 
the cruise is regulated by the supply of ice, a cargo of which is taken aboard 
before the sampan sails, for preserving the fish. The fish are caught en¬ 
tirely by hook and line. When the boats have good luck they return with 
a full cargo before the ice gives out. Among the fish caught are a number 
of excellent food-fishes, the more common of which are: ulua (cavella), 
kumu (goat-fish), and uku, ulaula, and opakapaka (snappers). 

Transportation and Communication. — The Oahu Railroad 
follows the coastal plain from Honolulu to Kahuku, from which 
point the Koolau Railway makes an extension as far as Kahaaa. 
At Waipahu there is a branch road to Wahiawa and the military 
posts, Schofield Barracks and Camp Castner. While this road 
was built as a means of conveyance to and from the plantations, 
it has naturally fostered a number of industries in different parts 
of the island, affording a means of transportation to a market. 

The Commercial Pacific Cable Company has made Oahu a 
relay station for its Pacific Ocean system. The other stations 
are San Francisco, Midway, Guam, Manila, and Shanghai, with 
a branch from Guam to Yokohama. This cable lands at Waikiki 
where it is connected v/ith the main office in Honolulu. 


46 


OAHU 


Wireless Telegraph.—Under “Commerce,” on page 28, it was noted 
that Oahu has been made an important center for wireless telegraph plants. 
These are located at Pearl Harbor, Wailupe, Heeia, Kahuku and Koko 
Head. The plant at Pearl Harbor, with its subsidiary receiving station at 
Wailupe, is a link in the great relay wireless system which connects the 
city of Washington with its outposts in the Pacific Ocean. Arranged in 
order, the stations of this system are as follows: Arlington, Darien, San 
Diego, Pearl Harbor and Cavite. It is not always necessary to use the relay 
stations in their order, as messages may be sent directly from Cavite to 
Darien when static conditions are right. The Heeia station is secondary to 
that at Pearl Harbor. 

The Kahuku and Koko Head stations are, respectively, sending and receiv¬ 
ing units for the commercial wireless system between the United States and 
Japan. They are among the largest and finest wireless stations in the world. 
Both are operated from the Koko Head Station, where the powerful operating 
plant is situated, the whole being connected by numerous telegraph lines. 

Wireless messages may be received almost anywhere as long as there is 
a good length of grounded wire connected with the instruments, but height 
is necessary for the proper sending of messages, hence tall masts indicate 
transmitting stations. In some cases there are many connected poles, as 
at Kahuku. Transmitting stations can be arranged to receive messages, 
but such stations are operated at a disadvantage for the reason that mes¬ 
sages cannot be sent and received by them at the same time. 

The inter-island wireless station for Oahu is located at Wahiawa. 

Districts. — The districts of Oahu are Honolulu, Ewa and 
Waianae, Waialua, Koolauloa, and Koolaupoko. 

The district of Honolulu is a small one, but it contains about 
one third of the population of the whole group. Ewa and 
Waianae comprise more than a third of the island; and, with 
the Honolulu district, constitute the most important section of 
the group. Koolauloa and Koolaupoko occupy the entire wind¬ 
ward side of the island. 

Towns. — Honolulu, the capital and chief commercial city 
of the Territory, had a population of 83,327 in 1920. 

It is well situated on a protected bay on the southeastern 
part of Oahu, and at the pass in the mountains to the other side 
of the island. Back of the coastal plain on which the city stands 
are a number of broad valleys that serve as catch basins for the 
rainfall, insuring the city a good water supply. These valleys 
have become the best residence sections. 


TOWNS 


47 


From time to time the harbor has been deepened and enlarged 
and the port facilities increased to meet the needs of a continually 
growing commerce. The railroad slips, main coaling plant, and 
floating drydock are now located at the western side of the har¬ 
bor; and this part of the harbor is being enlarged by dredging 
into Kalihi channel, which will permit the construction of ad¬ 
ditional wharves. 1 

A channel has been dredged through the outer reef to connect 
with the Kewalo basin on the eastern side of the harbor, for the 
use of the numerous fishing craft and lumber schooners. Marine 
railways have been constructed here for repairing small boats. 



City of Honolulu. 


Aside from the fact that it is a military outpost and a scenic 
center for the group, Honolulu owes its importance entirely to 
commerce. It is the distributing point for the territory, being 
connected by railroad with all parts of Oahu, and with the other 
islands by frequent steamer service. Hawaii is on or near the 
principal trade routes across the Pacific Ocean, being the only 
place between America and Asia where ships may replenish 
their supplies of water, coal, and fuel-oil. So it has come about 
that nearly all the steamships plying between Pacific ports and 

1 Through the foresight of the Inter-island Steamship Company the port of 
Honolulu has been enabled to meet the demands made upon it for the repair and 
coaling of ships, brought about by the expanding trade of the Pacific Ocean due 
to the opening of the Panama Canal. The old marine railway has been replaced 
by a ten-thousand ton floating dry dock, and wharves have been built and equipped 
with the latest coal-loading machinery. 





48 


OAHU 


Asia and Australia, or those taking the Panama Canal route 
bound for Asia, make Honolulu a port of call or halfway station. 
Its unique position has given Honolulu, in common with Hawaii, 
the Territory, the name, “ The Crossroads of the Pacific.” 

Honolulu is modern in its appointments, having all the conveniences 
of an up-to-date American city. There is a fine electric car system, an 
automatic telephone system, many parks, playgrounds, and places of 
amusement. In the main business area, near the intersection of Fort 
and King streets, there are fine mercantile buildings. The most noteworthy 
churches and schools are St. Andrew’s Cathedral, Central Union Church, 



Alexander Young Hotel, Honolulu. 


and the three splendidly equipped private schools in the suburbs — Oahu 
College, Mid-Pacific Institute, and the Kamehameha Schools. Some of the 
city’s edifices are prominent as foreshadowing its growth, such as the 
Alexander Young Hotel, the Moana on the beach at Waikiki, the Young 
Men’s Christian Association, Mission Memorial, and Library of Hawaii. 
Of historic interest is the Capitol, which was formerly the royal palace. 

Some features of interest about the city are Waikiki, Nuuanu Valley 
and the Pali, the Round-Top-Tantalus auto scenic drive, Kapiolani Park 
and the Aquarium of tropical fishes, the Pan-Pacific Japanese Tea Garden, 
Moanalua, Manoa Valley with its educational institutions, the Bishop 
Museum, Royal Mausoleum, and the schools. 

Waikiki sea beach, noted for its surf boating and surf-board riding, is 
located in the suburbs on a cove in the shelter of Diamond Head. The 















OAHU AN OUTPOST 


49 



Army and Navy Young Men’s Christian Association. 

beach is protected by a barrier reef inclosing a lagoon which has neither 
undertow nor is it ever entered by the larger sea fishes. With the tempera¬ 
ture of the water in this lagoon at about 78° the year round, it makes an 
ideal bathing spot. There are a number of bathing resorts on the beach, 
the chief of which is the beautiful Moana Hotel. 

The Pali commands a splendid panoramic view of the opposite side of 
the island. It is in the Nuuanu Valley where Kamehameha by his victory 
over Kalanikupule finally made himself master of the group. It is said that 
the remnant of the defeated army were brought to bay at a point near the Pali, 
and that here they leaped to death rather than suffer the tortures of capture. 

Moanalua is a beautiful country residence, the parklike grounds of 
which are open to the public. 

At the Kamehameha Schools is the Bishop Museum. The chief feature 
of this museum is its Hawaiian collection, but it also includes the world’s 
finest collection of Polynesian relics and antiquities. There is also a fine 
Hawaiian and Polynesian ethnological collection in the museum. 

Other Places. — Waipahu, Ewa Mill, and Aiea are important 
plantation settlements located on the railroad. Waipahu, being 
situated at the junction of the main line with its branch to 
Wahiawa and the military posts, has become the second largest 
town on Oahu. 

The public cemetery is located at Pearl City, from which a branch line 
of the railroad extends to the Peninsula, where there are a number of sub¬ 
urban residences. Otherwise this place is of little importance. 

GEOG. H. I. REV. — 3 





5o 


OAHU 


Watertown is the civilian settlement connected with Fort Kamehameha 
and the Marine Barracks, where it is located. 

Waianae is the only place of importance on the southwest side of the 
island. It is chiefly a plantation community. 

There is a large settlement at Waialua, which, while it is scattered over 
a considerable area, all goes by the general village name. The public school 
here, which is centrally located, is the largest of the Oahu country schools. 
A fine hotel is located on the beach at the old landing. 

Kahuku is at the main plantation camp where the mill is located. It is 
also the junction for the Oahu and Koolau railroads. A short distance 
northwest of Kahuku, strung along the shore in a double column, for nearly 
a mile, are the poles of the great Marconi wireless transmitting station. 

Laie is a thrifty Mormon village, whose chief occupation is the cultiva¬ 
tion of sugar cane. The area cultivated extends as far as Kahana Bay, 
the terminus of the Koolau Railroad, which is operated by this colony. 
A handsome tabernacle has been erected on the hill overlooking the village. 

The other places on the windward side of Oahu are small, the only one 
of importance being Kaneohe. 

At Waialee, near Kahuku, is the Boys’ Industrial School, which is a model 
institution of its kind. 

Not far from the Ewa Mill, below Sisal, is the U. S. Magnetic Station. 

Oahu an Outpost.—The Federal government has made of 
Oahu an important naval and military outpost of the Pacific, 
thus making this island the strategic center of the group. A 
chain of forts along the seashore protects the entrances to 
Honolulu and Pearl Harbors. Three splendidly equipped 
military posts have been established on the island : Fort Shafter 
in the suburbs of Honolulu at Moanalua, and Schofield Barracks 
and Camp Castner at Leilehua. Schofield Barracks is the main 
infantry post and Camp Castner is the cavalry camp. 

Pearl Harbor, with its big dry dock, the largest in the Pacific Ocean, 
with its huge floating crane, and machine shops, the finest of their kind, 
and its up-to-date coal loading plant, has been equipped for a naval coaling 
and repair station. So this splendid harbor of the Pacific, which seemingly 
was made on purpose for a great naval station, is fulfilling its destiny. 

Fort Kamehameha, which defends the passageway to Pearl Harbor, is 
the main fortress on Oahu. The principal fortifications protecting the 
harbor of Honolulu are Fort de Russy located at Waikiki, and Fort Ruger 
near Diamond Head. The army aviation field, Luke Field, is on Ford’s 
Island. 


HAWAII 


Physical Features. — Hawaii is at the extreme southeastern 
end of the group. This island, which is 4015 square miles in 
extent, includes about five eighths of the area of the whole 
group. It is somewhat smaller than Connecticut, and larger 
than Porto Rico by 580 square miles. 



Northeast Coast, Hawaii. 


Roughly speaking, Hawaii is a triangle, the chief capes — 
Upolu Point, Kumukahi Point, and South Point (Ka Lae) — 
being at the angles. On the windward side there are high 
cliffs; near the Waipio and Waimanu valleys these cliffs are 
several thousand feet high. Hilo, Kealakekua, Kailua, and 
Kawaihae are the chief bays of Hawaii. These bays were 
formed by lava flows which have pushed their way out into 
the sea on one or both sides. None of the bays have protect¬ 
ing coral reefs such as are found on the other islands. The reef 
in Hilo Bay is a submerged lava flow. Cocoanut Island is a 
portion of the same flow. 





'!u Pt #>> 15 5 * 40 


West f 


Lonqitude 


Honoipu 


MahuPona 


’oouhc u 


'oholalele 


Hawaihoe Bay 


to i me 


(Komuelo)P 
AU 2 (nlo 


MoUoloweri' 


Keaho/ePf 


Kailua Bay 


Pt'Ok kekua Bay 


Keoui 


M'W °vnaluu 

WW 

W^Honuapo 


eo'o 


19 40 


19’ to 


52 




























































As Hawaii is a new island, 
there is little coral found about 
it; and its beaches ate mostly 
of black sand, or white and 
black sand mixed. 

The island of Hawaii consists 
of the mountain masses of the 
Kohala range, Mauna Kea, Hua- 
lalai, and Mauna Loa. The sea 
has eaten its way deeply into the 
slopes of the Kohala Mountains 
and Mauna Kea on the wind¬ 
ward side, forming a long line of 
cliffs several thousand feet high 
in places, but no inroads to 
speak of have been made on the 
Hualalai and Mauna Loa slopes 
on the opposite side. The spaces 
between the mountains were wa¬ 
terways, no doubt, at one time, 
but these were filled by lava 
flows, and are now plateaus. 

Kohala Mountains. — The 
Kohala range is the oldest of 
Hawaii’s mountains, being as 
old as West Maui and Waianae 
of Oahu. We judge this to be 
so from the amount of erosion 
which has taken place. The 
highest point of this range, 
which seems to consist chiefly 
of a collection of cinder cones, 
is 5489 feet above sea level. 

The Waipio and Waimanu 
region is a part of this range. 
The remarkable gulches and 
stupendous sea cliffs which are 
found here may not be wholly 


53 

















54 


HAWAII 



Waipio Valley and Hiilawe Fall. 

the work of erosion, but perhaps partly the result of a great fault 
which caused a section of the coast here to break off into the sea. 

The summit of the Kohala Mountains, which is said to consist 
of a peat bog, is heavily wooded, as are also the windward slopes. 

The Waipio Valley is the largest of the Hawaiian gulches. 
It is not a pretty one, however, with the exception of the spot 
where the beautiful Hiilawe Fall takes its plunge of 1700 feet. 
But there is no Hiilawe now, except in very rainy times, for the 
Kukuihaele Plantation has taken the water for fluming cane. 
This gulch runs back for three or four miles and then turns at 
right angles, running past the head of the Waimanu Valley. 

Waimanu is deeper than Waipio, but is not so wide. This 
gulch is chiefly remarkable for the amazing semicircular pali 
at its head, with its numerous waterfalls. The Waimanu is a 
short gulch, extending only four miles back to the ridge that 
separates it from the Waipio Valley. 

There is a trail from Waipio to Waimanu which crosses 
twelve ravines in the distance between the two great gulches. 





MOUNTAINS 


55 


In rainy weather this path is not a safe one to travel on horse¬ 
back. Both of these gulches contain wide flood plains, having 
a gentle slope inland from sea level. In their lower sections the 
valley bottoms are entirely planted with rice. 

Mauna Kea. — Mauna Kea occupies more than half of 
the northern part of Hawaii, nearly the whole of the South 
Kohala, Hamakua, and Hilo districts being on its slopes. It 
is the highest island mountain of the world, being 13,825 
feet high. 



Summit of Mauna Kea. 


Mauna Kea does not end in a peak, but has a summit platform 
about five miles long and two miles wide. Upon this platform 
there are a dozen or more huge cinder cones. A great number of 
these cinder cones are also found about the upper part of the 
mountain — they are Mauna Kea’s striking feature. 

The north and east sides of Mauna Kea have a heavy rainfall, 
the lower slopes of Hilo and Hamakua being cut up by many 
gulches. These gulches are of a good size, but do not compare 
with those of West Maui, Oahu, and Kauai, for they hardly 
extend to the base of the summit dome, while the great valleys 
on the other islands have eaten their way into the very heart 


















vVAl 1 



COPYRIGHT, I&Q7, 8* W.T.POPE 


of the mountain. The upper part of the 
windward slope has not suffered much 
from erosion yet, while the opposite side 
shows scarcely any weathering at all. The 
lower slopes are heavily wooded on the 
windward side (north and east), but on 
the opposite side they are quite bare. 

During winter storms this mountain, 
as well as Mauna Loa, is heavily covered 
with snow, which reaches more than half¬ 
way to the forest line at times. 

On the south side of Mauna Kea’s plat¬ 
form, 12,000 feet above sea level, is the 
ancient quarry of Keanakakoi, where the 
natives made their stone adzes. Also, 
among the cinder cones on the summit is 
Lake Waiau — a small lake of a few acres 
in extent, and having a depth of 40 feet, 
which is fed from the melting snows. 

Hualalai. — Hualalai is a much smaller 
mountain than Mauna Kea, but otherwise 
it is very similar. Like Mauna Kea, 
Hualalai has no crater on its summit. 
Probably the craters on both of these 
mountains were filled with lava and then 
buried out of sight beneath the sand and 
fragments thrown from the cones on their 
summits. Hualalai is 8269 feet high. 

The mountain is almost entirely within 
the district of Kona. Near the sea the 
slope is gradual, but above this it is 
abrupt. The north side of the mountain 
is bare, but the other sides are wooded, 
though not heavily. There are no gulches 
whatever on the slopes of this mountain. 

The last flow from Hualalai was in 1801. 
This flow broke out low down on the 
mountain not many miles north of Kailua. 

57 





58 


HAWAII 


Kamehameha visited it and threw a lock of his hair into the 
flowing lava to appease the wrath of Pele. 

Mauna Loa. — Mauna Loa covers the whole southern half of 
Hawaii and a part of the Hamakua and Hilo districts. Here 
we find the forces which have made our islands still at work in 
the volcanoes of Kilauea and Mokuaweoweo. 



Trail to Summit of Mauna Loa. 


Mauna Kea can be ascended easily on any side, but not so 
Mauna Loa; for on every side there are wide regions of the 
roughest of lava flows extending from near the summit to the sea¬ 
shore. Where there is rain, these flows are covered with heavy 
forests, and are fast being converted into soil, but in the rainless 
regions they are as bare and rugged as when they first came down 
from the volcano. 

The cones found on Mauna Loa mark the spot where out¬ 
breaks of lava occurred. The slope on the upper part of the 
mountain is much less abrupt than that on Mauna Kea. Like 
Mauna Kea, it, too, has the summit platform. Sunk in this 
platform is its crater, Mokuaweoweo — the second largest active 
volcano in the world. 



MOUNTAINS 


59 


Mokuaweoweo is not always active, but is so only at times. 
When it is active, there is a lake of lava in the lower part of the 
crater, with playing fountains, presenting a magnificent spectacle 
at night from the brink. This activity usually lasts a few days 
and then the lava forces its way through the side of the moun¬ 
tain, making a lava flow. When the lava thus finds an outlet 
lower down, the eruption in the crater ceases. 



Eruption in Mokuaweoweo Crater, 1903. 



Night View of Eruption in Crater. 


Mauna Loa is 13,675 feet high, its platform being higher than 
that of Mauna Kea ; it is the cinder cones of this latter mountain 
which carry it 150 feet higher than Mauna Loa. The crater of 
Mokuaweoweo is 3! miles long and if miles wide ; it is inclosed 
by walls from 500 to 1000 feet high. 

Mauna Loa, including the crater of Mokuaweoweo, is one of 
the areas of the Hawaii National Park. 






6o 


HAWAII 




Lava Cascade in Crater of Kilauea. 


Crevice in Floor of Crater. 










MOUNTAINS 


61 


Kilauea. — The crater of Kilauea, with the region about it, 
contains many unique features of intrinsic as well as of geologic 
value, and is now a national park area. 

Kilauea is on the northeastern slope of Mauna Loa at an ele¬ 
vation of 4000 feet above sea level. The crater 1 is three miles 
long and two miles wide. The side towards the Volcano House 
is 500 feet high in places, but the opposite side is very low. 

The crater is a huge, lava-covered pit. This pit rises towards 
a spot near the south side, giving it, as seen from the Volcano 
House, the appearance of being nearly filled. At one time the 



Volcano House. 


crater was much deeper than it is now, containing a pit 
within a pit. But the lava has buried the lower pit out of 
sight and is gradually filling the other. Formerly a lake of 
lava was always to be found in the crater of Kilauea, but of 
late this lake has disappeared at times. At such times there 
is a huge pit (Halemaumau) where the lake was, from 
which a dense cloud of sulphurous smoke constantly rises, 
and spots about the pit are very hot. Since 1918, this 
pit has been filled, or partly filled, with molten lava. 
At one time this lava actually overflowed the brink on to the 
1 “Crater of Kilauea,” Charles W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, November, 
1900. 









62 


HAWAII 


floor of the main crater. It is hard to imagine a grander or more 
inspiring spectacle than that of Kilauea in action. It may be 
that Kilauea’s fires will cease again for a time, but this great 
crater, with the added features of its surrounding area, will 
always be an object of absorbing interest. 

Among the many points of interest near Kilauea are the sulphur banks, 
tree molds, koa and fern forests, deep pit craters of Kilauea Iki and Kea- 
nakakoi, craters on the Puna trail, and the desert region south of the 
crater. A seven-mile auto-driveway, terminating on the crater floor near 
the fire-pit, Halemaumau, presents many interesting features. 

On the brink of the crater near the Volcano House is the observatory 
of the Hawaiian Volcano Research Society. It is equipped with all the 
modern instruments necessary for the study of volcanic phenomena. 

Hawaii National Park. — The three areas which include the 
craters of Kilauea, Mauna Loa (Mokuaweoweo), and Haleakala 
on Maui constitute the Hawaii National Park, and as such they 
are listed with and are subject to the rules and regulations 
governing the great national playgrounds of the American people. 1 

Table-lands. — The grass-covered table-land between the 
Kohala Mountains and Mauna Kea is from 2500 to 3000 feet high. 
While this plateau is devoted almost entirely to cattle raising, 
it has an excellent soil and a climate well suited to the growing 
of many farm crops. 

The plateau between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa is from 
5000 to 6000 feet high. In contrast to the other one this is but 
a tangled mass of lava flows of the roughest kind. A large 
number of the more recent flows from Mauna Loa have passed 
over this region, flowing to the sea between Puako and Kiholo, 
or towards Hilo. As the greater part of the plateau is in the 
rainless region between the two mountains, even the oldest of 
the lava flows have changed but little. The Humuula Sheep 
Station uses part of the region as a sheep pasture, but the larger 
part of the plateau must remain forever a useless lava waste. 

Lava Flows. — A striking feature of Hawaii is its lava-cov¬ 
ered regions and lava flows. In the rainless sections many of 

1 See report of Director of National Park Service for 1917 and 1918. 


LAVA FLOWS 


^3 



Trail over Lava Fields. 


the flows look new, but no one knows when they occurred. 
Within the last hundred years there have been twelve great flows : 
ten from Mauna Loa, one from Hualalai, and one from Kilauea. 1 

Five of the flows broke from a spot on Mauna Loa’s northeastern slope, 
11,000 feet high. Three of the flows (1852, 1855, and 1881) which broke 
from this spot seriously threatened the town of Hilo; one of them, the 1881 
flow, came within three quarters of a mile of Waiakea, and the 1855 flow 
was seven miles from the town, when, for some unknown reason, it began 
spreading and banking, which continued for thirteen months. 

Three of the flows (1868, 1887, and 1907) broke out on the southern 
slope, and one (1859) on the northwestern slope of the mountain, flowing 
around Hualalai into the sea at Kiholo. 

Recent flows were those of 1916 and 1919 from the southern slope of 
Mauna Loa and one from Kilauea in 1920. The 1916 flow was of short 
duration, but that of 1919 proved to be a flow of some magnitude, for, 
crossing the road just north of Papa, it flowed into the sea for three weeks 
at Alika near the Hoopuloa landing. The flow from Kilauea, which partly 
emptied the lake of fire in the pit, followed the line of the 1868 crack. The 
Kilauea and 1919 flows were visited by scores of people, as they occurred 
in regions which could be reached easily. The flow of 1840 from Kilauea 
forced its way along just below the surface, finally breaking out and flowing 
eight miles to the sea in Puna. The flows from Kilauea have usually 
occurred in this manner. They have flowed chiefly over Puna. 

1 “Lava Flows of Hawaii,” C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Youn% People , December, 
1901; January, 1902. 




64 


HAWAII 


Usually these lava flows have broken out very quietly, a 
bright light upon the mountain side being the only indication 
that an eruption was in progress. The 1868 eruption was an 
exception, for a week before this outbreak occurred the Kau 
district was shaken by fearful earthquakes. The lava finally 
forced its way through a long rent in the mountain side two 
miles above the present Kahuku Ranch houses, pouring out an 
overwhelming flood, which soon reached the sea. 

During one of the heaviest of the 1868 earthquakes a water- 
soaked pali near the Kapapala Ranch in Kau was torn off and 
hurled three or four miles over the land, overwhelming a native 
village. This is known as the “Mud Flow”; thirty lives were 
lost in it. The Mud Flow is now planted with sugar cane, the 
best cane grown on the Pahala Plantation. 

This same earthquake caused a disastrous tidal wave to 
sweep the Puna and Kau coasts, destroying the village of 
Honuapo and drowning a number of people. It also opened 
a deep fissure (1868 Crack) eighteen miles in length, through 
the lower end of which, at a point above the sea, between 
Punaluu and the old Keauhou landing, the lake of lava in the 
crater of Kilauea emptied itself, forming a pahoehoe flow. 

It is not known that any lives have been lost in the lava flows of Hawaii. 
These flows have passed over waste regions, with the exception of those of 
1868 and 1887, which destroyed the best of the Kahuku pastures. 

Mokuaweoweo was usually active a few days before one of these out¬ 
breaks, the activity in the crater ceasing when the lava forced its way out 
lower down. The lava pouring out in a great fountain of fire, and the fiery 
stream hurrying down the mountain side, presented a spectacle seldom 
equaled for grandeur. 

Climate. — Owing to the height and position of its mountains, 
Hawaii has a greater variety of climate than the other islands of 
the group. Usually the trade wind reaches nearly all parts of 
our islands by blowing over and around them, but the mountains 
of Hawaii are too high and large, hence the whole western side 
of the island, which includes the larger part of South Kohala 
and both the Konas, is entirely free from this wind. 

That portion of the island sheltered from the trade wind is 


CLIMATE 


&5 


generally dry, but Kona is an exception to the rule. There is a 
dry belt near the sea, a mile or so wide, but above this the rain¬ 
fall is abundant. The mountain slope a short distance back 
from the shore is abrupt, hence the sea breeze is turned up¬ 
wards, meeting the colder air above before it has had a chance 
to lose its moisture, and rain is thfe result. Kona’s rainy season 
is during the summer months, and its dry season in the winter. 

The region extending from Kalapana in Puna on one side to 
Papaaloa in Hilo on the other is directly exposed to the trades, 
yet this wind is seldom felt here. This is due to the position of 
the mountains back of this part of the island, which check 
the wind, turning it upward and to one side. The moisture¬ 
laden wind thus turned upwards meets the cold air above, and 
causes the heavy rainfall of this region. The town of Hilo, 
which is near the center of this tract, has been well named the 
“ Rainy City,” having as great a rainfall as almost any place in 
the world. Owing to the heavy rainfall the Hilo and Puna dis¬ 
tricts are covered with dense forests. 

The rainless regions of Hawaii are the plateau between Mauna 
Loa and Mauna Kea, a wide district from Kawaihae to Kiholo, 
and a belt of land near the sea extending through Kona, Kau,. 
and into southern Puna. This dry belt is very narrow in Kona, 
but widens before South Point is reached in Kau. 

The larger part of this rainless tract is covered with lava flows 
which appear quite fresh, though they may be hundreds of years 
old. The regions from Puako to Kiholo, Hoopuloa to South 
Point, and between Punaluu and Kalapana are very interesting, 
being covered by the newest of the flows. There is a trail over 
the lava from Puako to Kiholo which is often traveled, but the 
two latter sections are never crossed. 

Vegetation. — With the exception of the section between 
Hualalai on the south and the Kohala Mountains on the north, 
Hawaii is encircled with a wide forest belt. On the windward 
side this forest belt formerly extended to the cliffs along the 
coast. The finest and most impenetrable forests of the group 
are those found in the Hilo and Puna districts. 

These forests do not differ in make-up from those on the 


66 


HAWAII 



other islands, except that there are groves of young sandalwood 
trees found in parts of Kona and Kau, and in the Olaa jungles 
there are a great many loulu palms. (These latter are a species 

of fan palm, from the 
undeveloped leaves of 
which the finest Ha¬ 
waiian hats are made.) 

The forest belt ex¬ 
tends as high as 6000 
and 7000 feet; above 
this there are shrubs 
and a species of long 
grass which grow up 
to an elevation of 
11,000 feet; still higher 
the mountains are bare 
of plant life. 

The North Kohala 
section of the island 
has been denuded of 
forest trees by fire and 
cattle to such a degree 
that the watersheds 
have been affected, 
causing springs to dry 
up and the rainfall to 
decrease. 

Industries. —Ha¬ 
waii has twenty-three 
sugar plantations, 1 and produces one third of the whole amount 
of sugar produced in the group. Most of the sugar comes from 
the windward side of the island, where cane is grown with¬ 
out irrigation. From Olaa to Waipio is an almost continuous 
belt of sugar cane, broken only by the gulches. 

Nearly all of the coffee grown on the Hawaiian Islands comes 
from the Hamakua and Kona districts. 


See Appendix A for list of plantations. 






INDUSTRIES 


67 



Heiau (Ancient Temple) at Kawaihae. 





Entrance to Heiau. 




68 


HAWAII 


The Waipio, Waimanu, and Pololu valleys are the only 
places on Hawaii where rice is raised. This rice is packed to 
the landing on the backs of mules. 

The areas of Hawaii above the cane fields are well adapted 
to the growing of fruits and vegetables, and no doubt a great 
many such would be raised by the homesteaders and small 
farmers, were it not for the difficulty and expense of getting 
the products to market. 

Dry-land taro is chiefly raised on Hawaii. This is planted 
among the forest trees, requiring only to be weeded a few times 
to produce a good crop. 

Cattle raising is an important industry on Hawaii, large 
tracts in various parts of the island being used for that pur¬ 
pose. Most of these rough, lava-covered regions would not 
be fit for anything else, but the finest of cattle are raised on 
them. 

In parts of South Kona and Puna the chief industry is fish¬ 
ing, the fish being dried and sent to the Honolulu market. 

Districts. — The districts of Hawaii are North Kohala, South 
Kohala, Hamakua, North Hilo, South Hilo, Puna, Kau, North 
Kona, and South Kona. 

South Kohala. — South Kohala is almost entirely within one 
of the dry regions, hence is not of much importance. The chief 
occupation of the district is grazing, the largest and most im¬ 
portant cattle ranch in the group, the Parker Ranch, being lo¬ 
cated here on the Waimea plateau. The extensive reaches of 
grass land make this plain an ideal ranching spot. 

Sections of the Waimea plain afford excellent agricultural 
lands, but owing to the distance from a market and the lack of 
shipping facilities to the port of Kawaihae, it does not pay very 
well to farm these lands. 

Waimea village, located on the plateau, is chiefly important 
as a center for ranching interests. It has a fine, bracing 
climate. 

Kawaihae is the port for South Kohala, being also the mail 
and passenger landing for Hamakua. It is an important cattle 
port. The wireless station for Hawaii is located here. 


KOHALA 


69 


On a hill overlooking the bay and village of Kawaihae is the 
heiau of Puukohola, built by Kamehameha in the year 1791. 
This was one of the largest and most recent of the heiaus. It is 
well preserved, the inclosing walls being almost perfect. 

The heiau was built as a favor to the gods to persuade them to secure 
to Kamehameha the kingdom 
of Hawaii, and Kamehameha’s 
savage resentment of any 
rival was undoubtedly the in¬ 
centive which led the impatient 
conqueror to the treacherous 
murder of the brave Keoua 
as he leaped ashore almost 
within the shadow of this 
heiau. 

North Kohala. — For 

many years the growing 
crops in Kohala were de¬ 
pendent upon the rainfall 
for their chief water sup¬ 
ply, but now all the cane 
fields are irrigated with 
water supplied from the 
Kohala ditch system, con¬ 
sisting of an upper and a 
lower ditch. These aque¬ 
ducts, largely tunnels, ex¬ 
tend into the Kohala 
Mountains to a point not 
far from the head of the 
great Waipio valley, tra¬ 
versing a rugged, inaccessible region. They convey the water 
to the lands above Honoipu, adding materially to the cane 
area of the Kohala district. This water is leased to the 
plantations, or is apportioned according to the share each 
holds in the concern. 

The area occupied by the Kohala plantations, of which there 






7 o 


HAWAII 


are six, Is smaller than that of some of the larger sugar estates of 
Oahu. Hawi is the chief plantation, producing two fifths of 
the crop for the district. Pineapples grow in the areas above the 
canefields, and there is a cannery. 

Mahukona is the port for North Kohala. It is connected 
by railroad with the plantations. Sugar is shipped direct to 
the mainland from this port. The term Kohala is usually ap¬ 
plied to that part of the district occupied by plantations. The 
chief place is Kapaau, the civic and business center. 

A statue of Kamehameha I, which formerly stood in the Ainakea School 
grounds, where, it is said, he was born, now occupies one of the court 
house lawns at Kapaau. The statue, of which that in Honolulu is a copy, 
was lost in a shipwreck off the coast of South America, but was recovered 
and set up in Kohala. 

Centrally located in this district is the Kohala Seminary for girls, the 
complement to the Hilo Boys’ Boarding School. 

As the plantation settlements are not far apart, Kohala 
has more community life than is usually found in the outer 
districts. 

Hamakua. — Outside of the Waipio region Hamakua has no 
running streams, or even springs. This is due to the abrupt 
slope of this part of the island, which allows the water to run 
off readily, and to the fact that the gulches run up toward the 
Waimea plateau, thus having no good watershed back of them. 
While the rainfall in this district as a rule is abundant, at times 
there are severe droughts. To overcome this difficulty, two 
ditches were constructed which bring the Waipio water upon the 
Hamakua lands. The plantations nearest the gulch use part of 
this water for irrigating and fluming their cane, and part for es¬ 
tablishing waterworks for the different villages. Unfortunately, 
these ditches run dry at times, as they tap the streams in the 
mountain area above Waipio Valley, which is affected by the 
drought. 

Owing to the abrupt slope and the lack of water for fluming 
purposes, the plantations of Hamakua have had great difficulty 
in finding means for transporting their cane to the mills. At 
Paauilo a permanent railroad track has been built which by 
many turnings reaches the higher fields. At Kukaiau a com- 


hamakua 


71 


plete system of trolley cables has been installed. The cane is 
tied up in bundles and sent directly to the mill, or to an assembly 
station on the plantation railroad. In other cases the cane is 
sent down on gravity roads, or in flumes to stations on tracks 
which extend out on each side of the mill. 

The Kukaiau Plantation has merged its interests with the Hamakua 
Mill Company. The cane is ground by the mill of the latter at Paauilo. 
The cane of the Pacific Sugar Mill Company (Kukuihaele) is ground at the 
Honokaa Mill. 

The Hamakua Mill sends its sugar by railroad to Hilo for transship¬ 
ment. The other plantations maintain their own landings. The sugar 
is swung out to the boat or vessel by means of a derrick operated by a 
donkey engine. At the best these are hazardous landings, while in rough 
weather they cannot be used at all. 

Hamakua next to Kona is the chief coffee section of the group. The 
finest and largest coffee estate in the islands is located in this district at 
Kalopa, above Paauhau — that of Louisson Brothers. Some splendid 
coffee fields are to be found on this estate, due to the care and cultivation 
the trees receive. There is a model mill here which prepares and grades 
the coffee beans for market. 

The areas in this district above the plantation cane fields are excellent 
farm lands, but owing to the distance from market and the cost of trans¬ 
portation to the landing, only a small portion is used for general farming 
purposes. There are important homestead tracts in this section where the 
main crop is sugar cane. 


The Hamakua settlements are divided between the gov¬ 
ernment road, which is a mile or more from the sea, and 
the mills that are conveniently situated near the bluffs along the 
shore. 

Honokaa, the civic center, has long been the main settlement 
in this district, owing to its central location. 

Paauilo has become important as the terminus for the Hawaii 
railway, although the depot is located at the mill a mile below the 
settlement, on the government road. 

Other places in Hamakua are Paauhau, Kukuihaele and 
Waipio. 

Waipio is connected with Kukuihaele by a steep trail up the 
east side of the valley. A road was once built around the sea 


72 


HAWAII 


cliffs from Kukuihaele to Waipio, but large sections of this road 
were destroyed by landslides, making it impassable. 

In ancient times Waipio was one of the chief places of Hawaii, 
having a large population. It was here that Kamehameha 
landed after the sea fight off Waimanu to bury his dead, march¬ 
ing the next day to Waimea, up historic “Mud Lane.” 



Honokaa Landing, Hamakua. 


North Hilo and South Hilo. — In contrast to Hamakua, these 
districts have many deep gulches, each of which has a large, ever- 
running stream. However, with the exception of the gorge of the 
Wailuku, which probably began in a lava tunnel, these gulches, 
though they are large near the sea, do not extend far inland. 

These districts are among the most pleasant places of the 
group, being always green and free from high winds or dust. 
At night there is a gentle land breeze from Mauna Kea, and 
during the day the air is kept cool by the sea breeze. 

As water is abundant in these districts, it is used almost en¬ 
tirely for transporting the cane from the fields to the mill. The 
highest and longest flumes on the islands are found here. Por¬ 
table flumes are used for getting the cane to the main flumes, 
which carry it to the mill. 

The sugar from the North Hilo plantations is now shipped to 
the port of Hilo by railroad. Former landings along this rugged 











NORTH HILO AND SOUTH HILO 


73 


coast, where the sugar was conveyed to the vessel by a trolley 
traveling on a cable stretching from the cliff over her deck, have 
been abandoned. 

The chief places of these districts, named in order from north 
to south, are Laupahoehoe, Papaaloa, Honomu, Onomea, Pa- 
paikou, and Hilo Town. (Waiakea and Wainaku are suburbs 
of Hilo.) 



The town of Hilo is superbly situated; the view from the bay 
with the peaks of Mauna Loa and snow-capped Mauna Kea in 
the distance, towering above the rich foliage, make a scene of 
rare beauty. 

Hilo owes its importance to the fact that it has the only good 
harbor on the eastern side of Hawaii, and that it is the landing 
for tourists to the volcano of Kilauea. The town has a popula¬ 
tion of about 10,500, and is the county seat for the island of 
Hawaii. 

The harbor is partially protected by a submerged reef which 
extends out into the bay from the east shore. A breakwater 

GEOG. H. I. REV. — 4 





























74 HAWAII 

has been built for over a mile along this reef, giving Hilo a splen¬ 
did deep-water harbor. Wharves have been constructed within 
the shelter of the breakwater, connected with the town, which 
is two and one half miles away, by railroad and by a good drive¬ 
way for vehicular traffic. 


Interior of Sugar Mill. Cane Going to Crushers. 

Hilo is the distributing center for the Puna, Hilo, and Hamakua 
districts. A railroad (Hawaii Consolidated Railroad) runs as 
far as Paauilo in Hamakua on the one side, and to Glenwood, 
nine miles from the volcano of Kilauea, on the other, with a 
branch road to Kapoho. This railway is of standard gauge 
with modern equipment. The Hamakua extension of this 
railroad, which crosses over 200 streams, is a remarkable feat 
of engineering. While this section of the road was built for 
commercial purposes, nowhere is there a finer stretch of scenic 
railway. Hilo is connected with Honolulu by regular steamer 
service, and also with San Francisco and other Pacific ports. 








HILO 


75 


Hilo’s abundant water supply is used to develop electricity, which is 
furnished at a low cost. An electric street railway is projected for the town. 
Hilo has the first Federal building erected in the Pacific. There are a public 
library and some good mercantile buildings. The town is well supplied 
with schools; besides large Catholic schools for boys and girls, there is a 
high school and a well-equipped grammar school. Also located here is the 
Hilo Boys’ Boarding School, from which General Armstrong patterned the 
famous Hampton Institute of Virginia. 

The Wailuku River flows through the town, being spanned by some fine 
bridges. 



Sugar Mill in Hilo District (Wainaku). 


Points of special interest near Hilo are Coconut Island, the bathing 
resort of the city; Rainbow Falls, Onomea Gulch and Arch, the pretty 
Akaka Fall at Honomu, and the Kaumana Caves (lava channels of the 1881 
flow); but the whole section about the town, with its enveloping woods 
and waterfall-studded gulches, abounds in spots of scenic beauty. 

The Onomea Sugar Company’s mill is at Papaikou, which 
is the most important place in North Hilo north of the town of 
Hilo. 

Laupahoehoe village, which is built on a tongue of lava jutting 
out from the mouth of the gulch, is the halfway house between 
Hilo and Hamakua. The landing, which has long been an im- 




76 


HAWAII 


portant one on this coast, is no longer used by the regular mail 
and passenger boats. 

Honomu, Hakalau, and Pepeekeo are large plantation settle¬ 
ments, the two former being on the main road, while the latter 

is near the mill a short 
distance below the road. 
The Laupahoehoe Mill 
is located at Papaaloa 
on the bluff two miles 
from the village. 

Puna. — There is a 
tradition which says 
that at one time Puna 
was one of the most 
fertile districts of Ha¬ 
waii, but while the 
chief of the district was 
in Hilo, Pele paid him a 
visit, pouring over his 
possessions a terrible 
flood of lava. How¬ 
ever, the rainfall is so 
great in parts of the 
district that this lava 
has been rapidly decom¬ 
posed, and the heaviest 
of forests are to be found, as in Olaa and the region about Pahoa. 

A large part of the soil of upper Olaa is ash which probably 
came from Kilauea; the great fertility of this soil is due to the 
decayed vegetable matter which has been added to it. 

There are no streams or springs in Puna, the only dependence 
for water being tanks. 

Olaa. — The lower part of the Olaa section of Puna is occupied 
with the cane fields of the Olaa Sugar Company; above this 
there are a number of homesteads where the farmers raise for 
market dairy products, hogs, poultry, berries, and some garden 
truck. This latter area has a splendid forest growth, and in 





HILO 


77 



Onomea Arch. 



Cliff at Laupahoehoe, 








78 


HAWAII 


common with the rest of Olaa has a very heavy rainfall. It is a 
fine agricultural region where many tropical fruits and plants 
grow well, and no doubt in time will develop into an important 
farming district. Glenwood, the terminus for the railroad, is the 
shipping center for this section. Not far from the crater of Ki- 
lauea, near the road leading to it, are a number of summer homes. 

The Olaa Plantation, which is the largest sugar estate on this 
island, occupies nearly all of the available cane land of the Puna 
district, including the Pahoa and Kapoho tracts. The Hawaii 
Railroad winds through the Olaa fields on its way to the volcano 
station at Glenwood. The plantation makes use of this road 
for transporting its cane to the mill. 

Keaau, sometimes referred to as Nine Miles and Olaa, is the 
chief place in Puna. The Olaa Mill is located near this place. 
Mountain View, Pahoa, and Kapoho are largely plantation 
camps. Kalapana is an isolated fishing village of South Puna. 
This section is but thinly settled, and too rocky to ever be of 
much use. 

A long section of the Puna coast, thirty or forty miles, shows 
evidences of having sunk.' Coconut trees are found below the 
tide level, or their dead stumps stand out in the sea. 

At Kapoho there is a warm spring, which is a pool about sixty feet in 
length and thirty feet wide, with a depth of twenty-five feet, filling a cleft 
in the lava rock. The water is remarkably transparent and buoyant, and 
is of blood heat. 

Other interesting features of Puna are: the lava tree casts found in the 
forest above Kapoho; Green Lake, a pretty pond of water in a volcanic 
cone at Kapoho; the bowlders strewn along the coast near Pohoiki by the 
great 1868 tidal wave; and the heiau of Wahaula in farthest Puna. (A fac¬ 
simile in miniature of this heiau as it would appear if restored is to be seen 
in the Bishop Museum.) 

Kau. — Near the sea in Kau there is a low belt several miles 
in width which is hot and dry, but above this the land rises 
abruptly, and has a good rainfall. Upon this highland cane 
is planted, and grows well without irrigation. The section 
cultivated with sugar cane is the older portion of the district; 
being higher it was not covered with lava. 


PUNA 


79 



Lava Tree Casts, Puna. 



Green Lake, Puna. 











8o 


HAWAII 


With the exception of a few small gulches, Kau is without 
valleys and streams — the so-called Wood Valley is nothing 
more than a depression in the mountain side made by just such 
a catastrophe as that which caused the Mud Flow. Mountain 
springs have been developed and storage reservoirs built so that 
the plantations have sufficient water to irrigate some of their 
lower fields and flume nearly all the cane to the mill. 

There are two plantations in Kau: the Pahala, or Hawaiian 
Agricultural Company, and Naalehu and Hilea, which comprise 
the Hutchinson Sugar Company. Pahala is one of the largest and 
best plantations on Hawaii. Cane is planted higher here than 
in any other part of the group. The Hilea Mill is at Honuapo. 
Each plantation has a railroad to the landing — Pahala shipping 
its sugar at Punaluu, and Naalehu and Hilea at Honuapo. 
Honuapo is the chief landing of Kau. It is the passenger land¬ 
ing for the volcano of Kilauea when the trip is made by way of 
West Hawaii. 

Kapapala and Kahuku are cattle ranches. They occupy 
chiefly the lava regions of Kau. The 1868 and 1887 flows cov¬ 
ered the best of the Kahuku pastures. 

Besides the landings and plantation settlements, the only 
other place of importance in Kau is Waiohinu. (The landings 
at Kaalualu and Keauhou have long since been abandoned.) 
Waiohinu was a flourishing place at one time, being the chief 
market for barter and trade of a large farming population occu¬ 
pying the land between the village and Kahuku. But these 
people have gone elsewhere, and the town has lost its prestige. 

In olden times Kau had a large native population. These people culti¬ 
vated upland patches, but lived chiefly near the sea. Their favorite place 
seems to have been the lava region from Honuapo to Punaluu. Near 
Punaluu a large underground stream runs into the sea, and at other points 
along the coast there are springs, which accounts for the selection of this 
dreary spot for a home by these people. 

North Kona and South Kona. — The entire surface of these 
districts is composed of partly decomposed lava flows. There 
are very few level patches, and no place where a baseball ground 
or a polo field could be laid out. 


NORTH KONA AND SOUTH KONA 


81 



There are no gulches or streams, and but very few springs. 
Small freshets cross the road in a few places in North Kona at 
times when it rains heavily, but are lost in the rocks before they 
reach the sea. There is only one such place in South Kona, 
where, during a storm, the water may be heard roaring above, 
though it scarcely ever crosses the road. 


Honuapo Landing. 

There is a warm, dry belt near the sea throughout these dis¬ 
tricts, but above this the land rises abruptly into a cool and brac¬ 
ing climate, where rain is plentiful. 

Road building is difficult and expensive in Kona, owing to the 
abrupt slope and rocky nature of the surface; hence there is 
but one main road which extends the entire length of these dis¬ 
tricts. This road is from one to four miles above the shore. 
Branch roads extend to all of the landings, but all other places 
must be reached by trails. Donkeys are used entirely for trans¬ 
portation over these trails. A great many of these useful ani¬ 
mals are found in Kona. 







82 


HAWAII 


These districts comprise one of the finest agricultural sections 
in the group; everything grows well, even though seemingly 
planted right among the rocks. However, many things cannot 
be cultivated with profit, owing to the distance from any market 
and to the expense of transporting produce to the various land¬ 
ings. 

The chief industry of Kona is coffee — everywhere there are 
coffee fields. Most of these fields are cared for by Japanese. 
There are several good coffee mills in both districts, where the 
coffee is prepared in the best way for market. 

Tobacco growing is an important industry in South Kona. 
There are extensive curing sheds here where the leaf is prepared 
for market. 

Cane planting is not carried on so extensively here as it is in 
the other districts, because cultivation and transportation are 
difficult, owing to the rocky nature of the ground, the abrupt 
slope, and the lack of running water. 

On the upper slopes of Hualalai and Mauna Loa, which 
afford fine grazing land, there are a number of cattle ranches. 
Owing to the rocky nature of this region, cattle driving is diffi¬ 
cult and hazardous. 

Kailua is the civic center for both districts, and the chief 
port in North Kona. There are two coffee mills here where the 
beans are prepared and graded for market. A great deal of 
coffee is shipped from this port. Kailua’s most striking feature 
is its great stone church built in the year 1835, when there was 
a large native population in this region. 

Holualoa is an inland village at the junction of the main road 
with that leading to the sea beach and the Kailua landing. The 
large school here indicates it to be one of the chief population 
centers of Kona. 

Konawaena, which is situated on the boundary line between 
the two districts, is the community center for this part of Hawaii. 
There are a community house here, two branch banks, a central 
church, and a large school. 

Napoopoo, famous as the landing place of Captain Cook, is 
located on the eastern side of Kealakekua Bay opposite the 


NORTH KONA AND SOUTH KONA 


83 




Fishing Village, Kona. 


Loading Cattle at Kailua. 










8 4 


HAWAII 



spot where the Great Circumnavigator’s monument stands, 
which is in plain view from the village. Napoopoo is the chief 
landing for South Kona. Like Kailua it is an important coffee 
port. 

Kealakekua is a small inland village on the main road north 
of the bay. 


Old Palace, Kailua. 

Hoonaunau is now two miles inland, there being but a few 
huts which guard the historic spot where the ancient village 
stood by the sea. 

The ruins of the ancient temple and city of refuge at Ho¬ 
onaunau, which have been partially restored, are kept in a state 
of preservation. 

Hookena is only of importance as the landing for the interior 
country. 

Many of the places in Kona are so much scattered along the 
upper road, or divided between that road and the seashore, that 
it is a little difficult to name them. 









NORTH KONA AND SOUTH KONA 


8S 




City of Refuge, Honaunau, Kona. 


Cook’s Monument, on Keaiakekua Bay. 











86 


HAWAII 


In ancient times Kona was one of the favorite places of the natives, and 
had a large population. These people lived chiefly along the seashore, 
where it was warm and dry, and where the placid waters afforded the best 
of fishing. Trips were made inland to the forests, where dry-land taro was 
planted. 

Kona abounds in places and objects of historic interest as: the famous 
City of Refuge at Honaunau; Kaawaloa (on Kealakekua Bay), where 
Cook was killed; the great stone toboggan slide just above Keauhou; the 
Judd road, extending from the shore between Kailua and Keauhou in a 
direct line fifteen miles towards Hilo; the stone wall built to exclude the 
pigs from the agricultural land above, and running through the entire 
district. 

An obelisk has been erected at Kaawaloa to the memory of Captain 
Cook, bearing the following inscription: — 

IN MEMORY OF 

THE GREAT CIRCUMNAVIGATOR 

CAPTAIN JAMES COOK, R.N. 

WHO 

DISCOVERED THESE ISLANDS 
ON THE l8TH OF JANUARY, A.D. 1778 

AND FELL NEAR THIS SPOT 
on the 14TH of February, a.d. 1779 


THIS MONUMENT WAS ERECTED 
in November, a.d. 1874 

BY SOME OF 

HIS FELLOW COUNTRYMEN 

Though Cook was killed at Kaawaloa, it was at Napoopoo that he landed 
and did his bartering with the natives. 

The City of Refuge occupies six or seven acres of a low, rocky (pahoehoe) 
point on the south side of the little bay of Honaunau. The inclosing walls 
on the south and east sides are still standing, but the others have been 
destroyed by tidal waves. The walls are about twelve feet in height and 
eighteen feet in width. The Hale-o-Keawe stood upon the platform of 
rock at the northeast corner facing the bay. Below this there is a larger 
platform, which marks the site of the lower temple. On either side of this 
latter platform there are two huge altar stones, called Keoua’s and Kaahu- 
manu’s stones. 



MAUI 


Physical Features. — The Maui group, including Maui, Molo¬ 
kai, Lanai, and Kahoolawe, is midway between Hawaii and 
Oahu, Maui itself being nearest to Hawaii. 

While Maui is second in size of the Hawaiian Islands, con¬ 
taining 728 square miles, it is only about one fifth the size of 
the island of Hawaii. 

Maui is a double island, with the smaller lobe lyirfg towards 
the northwest. It has no distinct promontories or capes. 
Kauiki Head is the rim of a crater which incloses on one side 
Hana Bay. The so-called Kahakuloa Point is but one of a 
succession of points, being prominent because of its peculiar 
formation rather than because of its size. 

Maui is made up of two distinct mountain masses joined by 
a low, flat isthmus. Haleakala occupies the whole of the eastern 
section, comprising the larger part of the island, while the West 
Maui Mountains fill the smaller or western section of the island. 

On the north and south sides of the isthmus are the bays of 
Kahului and Maalaea respectively. On the north side the coral 
has built out from the mainland on both sides, forming the 
Kahului Harbor. Through the opening in the reef there is a 
deep channel which the largest vessels can enter. 

Along the northeast coasts of both Mauis there a're cliffs, but 
they are not of great height. 

Off the Lahaina side of West Maui there are extensive coral 
reefs and a sand beach extending many miles along the shore. 
Much coral is also found about East Maui, where the conditions 
are favorable for its growth, but, as this part of the island is 
much newer than the other, the reefs are not so extensive. 

West Maui Mountains. — The West Maui section is much 
older than Haleakala, being possibly as old as the island of Kauai, 
the Waianae range of Oahu, or the Kohala Mountains of Hawaii. 

87 



88 




















20 


West from 


156 10 


Greenwich 


156 0 


21 0 



8o 


























90 


MAUI 


As these mountains are stretched directly across the track of 
the trade winds, they have been subject to a very heavy rainfall, 
and have been tremendously cut up, furnishing as fine an ex¬ 
ample of erosion as can be found anywhere. So great has the 
cutting been that it is difficult for us to imagine that the great 
gulches we find here, such as Iao, Waihee, Olowalu, and Hono- 
kahau, are purely the result of erosion. However, we have ex¬ 
amples on a smaller scale with just such results as we find here; 
so undoubtedly the great amphitheaters at the head of these 
valleys are areas of erosion, and not old craters, as we might 
suppose them to be at first sight. 

The highest peak of West Maui is Puu Kukui, 5788 feet 
high. 

The scenery in the Iao Valley, which is the most accessible of the West 
Maui gulches, has been described as being almost equal to that of Yosemite, 
but that of Waihee and Olowalu is fully as fine. The view from the top 
of Puu Kukui, looking almost perpendicularly down into the wonderful 
gorges of Iao and Waihee and out over East Maui and the top of Haleakala 
to the snow-capped mountains of Hawaii, is said to be one of the finest in 
the world. 

Owing to the narrowness of the ridges and the dense vegetation which 
covers them, these mountains can be scaled in only a few places. There 
was once a way from Lahaina to Wailuku over the dividing ridge between 
the Olowalu and Iao valleys, known as the Olowalu Pass, but this road is 
now impassable, owing to landslips. 

On a narrow ridge between the Waihee and Honokahau val¬ 
leys is the crater of Eke. The peculiar position of this crater, 
which is a small one, is due entirely to erosion. 

Near the summit of Puu Kukui there is an extensive bog or 
marsh, which is the source of all the streams on the Lahaina 
side of the mountain. Though this side of the mountain is 
exceedingly dry, having rain only during the Kona storms, it is 
abundantly supplied with water from the fine watershed afforded 
by the mountains back of it. 

Owing to the heavy rainfall, the upper slopes of West Maui 
are covered with a dense growth of vegetation, but lower down 
they are entirely bare. 


MOUNTAINS 


9i 


There is a narrow coastal plain on the sheltered side of West 
Maui formed by wash from the mountain ; fine crops of cane are 
grown on this land. 

Haleakala and East Maui. 1 — Haleakala Mountain, which rises 
to a height of 10,0^2 feet above sea level, contains the greatest 
of the world’s extinct volcanoes — the crater of Haleakala. 
The greatest length of the crater is seven and one half miles, 
and its width two and one third miles, its circumference being 
twenty miles. Owing to the shape and nature of the crater, it 
is difficult to give any true conception of its size by stating that 
it is so long and so wide, and so many miles in circumference. 
We might give a better idea of its size by stating that it is 2000 
feet deep, that one of the cones in the crater is over 700 feet 
high, and that in its bottom there is room enough for one of the 
great American cities. Haleakala crater is an area of the 
Hawaii National Park. 

Haleakala is unique among our island mountains in that it retains in¬ 
tact the great crater which formed the mountain. In every other case 
(Mauna Loa has its crater, but this mountain is still in process of formation) 
the central crater has been filled up and so completely obliterated that not 
the slightest trace of it can be found. But in this case the crater is entire, 
excepting two great openings or gaps, one on either side, through which 
the lava flowed to the sea. This can be explained by a great fault wdiich 
caused the eastern section of the island to slip away and down, thus forming 
the crater and the Koolau and Kaupo gaps. Instead of filling up the crater, 
as it would otherwise have done, the lava now flowed through these gaps 
to the sea. 

With its cones and sand-covered bottom, the crater of Hale¬ 
akala resembles the top of Mauna Kea in general appearance. 
With the exception of two typical aa flows, which came from 
a fissure high up on the eastern wall, flowing some distance 
along the bottom, and an old pahoehoe flow in the extreme 
eastern end, the lava floor of the crater is thickly covered with 
sand, being exposed only where this sand has been washed 
away by the weather. 

1 “Haleakala,” Charles W. Baldwin, Hawaii’s Young People , April, 1898 (1895 
on outside cover). 



92 









MAUI 



93 










94 


MAUI 



The crater is nearly bare of vegetation, showing here and 
there but a few bushes and scattering silver-swords, except on 
the eastern side, where there is a good growth of scrub ohia, 
mamane, etc., while in the extreme eastern corner there is a 
grove of forest trees and abundant fodder for animals; in the 
brook beds on the sides water can be found. 

The gaps are wide where they open out from the crater, the 
cliffs on either side towering to a great height. The fissure 


Haleakala Crater, looking East. 

which formed these gaps extended to the sea, making the 
Keanae Valley on one side. The Kaupo gap descends abruptly 
to the sea, while that on the Koolau side has a gradual incline 
for most of the distance. There is a trail through the Kaupo 
gap which is used by cattlemen. 

Next to the gaps the most striking feature of Haleakala is its sand cones. 
There are thirteen cones in the crater, seven of which are sand cones, one of 
them being over 700 feet high. These cones, which are placed over vents 
in the lava of the crater, contain craters from which was erupted the sand 
of which they are formed and which so thickly covers the bottom. 




MOUNTAINS 


95 


Growing in the sand of the cones, or from crevices in the floor of the crater, 
are numbers of silver-swords (Argyroxiphium). These curious and in¬ 
teresting plants are not found anywhere else in the world. 

Other interesting features of the crater are: the Bottomless Pit (a 
blowhole); Pele’s Pigpen (a small, partly filled crater); Hunter’s Cave; 
Crystal Cave and the Chimneys; and the Natural Bridge — the four 
last-named are craters along a rent which marked one of the eruptions within 
the crater. 

Judging from the lava flows found in its bottom, the crater of Haleakala 
may have been active two or three hundred years ago. 



“ Bottomless Pit,” Haleakala Crater. 


A well-marked trail leads from Makawao to the summit of the crater, 
where there is a rest house. The trail into the crater, with the exception 
of three miles along the brink, is a good one. 

The side of Haleakala exposed to the wind is cut up into a 
countless number of gulches. These gulches are large near the 
seacoast, but do not extend far up on the mountain side. The 
Keanae Valley is the extension of the Koolau gap. The Kipa- 
hulu Valley, which is separated from the crater by a narrow 
precipitous ridge, was caused by that portion of the land be- 





9 6 


MAUI 



SlLVER-SWORD IN 


Bloom, Haleaicala Crater. 



Sand Cone in Haleakala Crater, 









THE ISTHMUS 


97 


tween the Kaupo gap and the valley splitting away from the 
main body and not sliding as far, when the fault occurred which 
formed the crater. 

On the wedge-shaped piece on the northeastern side of the 
crater is Lake Waianapanapa, directly above the head of the 
Kipahulu Valley. 

The southeastern slope of Haleakala is barren, a portion of 
it being covered with lava flows; some of these flows are quite 
recent — being perhaps one hundred and fifty years old. 

The northwestern slope of the mountain, being protected 
from the wind, presents an almost unbroken stretch to the 
isthmus. 

The Isthmus. — The isthmus which joins East and West Maui 
is eight miles wide at its narrowest point. At one time this 
isthmus must have been a waterway, when the Mauis were 
separate islands. This channel was filled by flows from Halea¬ 
kala, and finally covered by wash from the mountains on both 
sides, forming the central plain of Maui. 

The sand dunes of the isthmus near Wailuku were no doubt caused by 
an upheaval of this part of Maui, as they are two hundred feet high and 
contain fragments of coral and sea shells; but the sand hills on the lower 
part of the isthmus are the product of the wind. 

Formerly numbers of these dunes could be seen slowly moving across 
the isthmus, finally being lost in the sea on the opposite side; but most of 
the isthmus land has now been reclaimed by irrigating ditches, and the rest 
is rapidly being covered with algaroba trees; hence but a few of these 
traveling dunes are to be seen to-day. 

Districts. — The districts of Maui are Lahaina, Wailuku, 
Makawao, and Hana. 

Lahaina. — The Lahaina district includes all of the northern, 
the western, and a part of the southern slope of the West Maui 
Mountains. The island of Lanai is included in this district. 

This district, being mostly sheltered from the wind, is a dry 
one, receiving rain only during the Kona season. Though the 
main part of the district is practically a rainless one, yet it is 
well supplied with water from many never-failing streams whose 
source is the Puu Kukui watershed. 

GEOG. H. I. REV. — 5 


MAUI 



Former Missionary Home, Lahaina. 

There are two plantations in this district — the Pioneer Mill 
Company, at Lahaina, and the Olowalu Company. 

The Pioneer Mill Company is one of the oldest sugar planta¬ 
tions of the group. By means of artesian wells, tunneling in 
the mountains, and a long ditch from the Honokahau Valley, 
water has been developed, so that this is now one of the largest 
and most prosperous plantations of the Territory. The cane 
land of this plantation comprises that on the Lahaina flat, the 
slopes back of the town, and the lower part of the Honokawai 
lands. The sugar is carried out by railroad to Black Rock 
(Kaanapali Landing), where it is shipped. The largest vessels 
can come close in shore here. 

The Olowalu Company is a small plantation situated on the 
flat near the mouth of the Olowalu gulch. 

Honolua is the headquarters for a cattle ranch which occupies 
the larger part of the northern section of West Maui. Pineap¬ 
ples are grown extensively in this region; the fruit is sent to the 
cannery at Lahaina. 

The only place of importance in this district is the village of 
Lahaina. At one time the town occupied the whole flat, but 
now most of this flat is planted with sugar cane, the main part 







WAILUKU AND MAKAWAO 


99 


of the town being strung out along the shore. There is a pro¬ 
tecting coral reef here with an opening through which boats 
may enter. 

Lahaina was the ancient capital of the group, and was then a large and 
flourishing town. The prosperity of the place was largely due to the 
whaling fleet which made this 
a port of call for water and 
supplies during its cruise in 
the north Pacific. It took 
from one to three years to 
secure a full cargo of oil, and 
then the ship sailed for New 
Bedford by way of Cape Horn. 

At one time there were as 
many as 89 whaling ships 
anchored off the town. 

The port of Lahaina, 
which is an open road¬ 
stead, is well sheltered by 
the West Maui Moun¬ 
tains, except from the 
south wind. As this wind 
only blows for short 
periods during the winter months, the harbor is usually a safe 
one. 

The regular boats do not touch at the Maalaea Bay landings, 
but mail and passengers for East Maui are landed at Lahaina, 
which is connected with Wailuku by a good road. 

The wireless station for Maui is located at Lahaina. 

Two and a half miles above Lahaina on the hillside is the 
Lahainaluna Seminary. This school was established in the 
year 1831, and was long the leading institution for the education 
of Hawaiian youth. In the year 1905 the school was furnished 
with new buildings, and is now one of the leading industrial 
schools in the Territory. 

Wailuku and Makawao. -The Wailuku and Makawao districts, 
which occupy the entire central section of Maui, have so many 
activities in common that they may be studied together. 



Old Ruin, Lahaina. 




100 


MAUI 


Wailuku includes the island of Kahoolawe and Honuaula on 
the extreme southern section of Maui. Makawao, which in¬ 
cludes Kula, covers the larger part of the western slope of 
Haleakala. As it is mostly on the sheltered side of the moun¬ 
tain, there are no deep gulches except in the eastern part. 

Central Plain and Irrigation Aqueducts. — This plain, the 
greater part of which is arid, furnishes a good example of what 
may be accomplished by human energy and enterprise in re¬ 
claiming waste land. Water was supplied through a system of 
irrigation canals extending forty and fifty miles into the rugged 
mountain region on the northern slope of Haleakala. 

These canals were built in sets, the upper one not only bringing the water 
out at a higher elevation, but carrying it farther along the plain. While 
these aqueducts are usually spoken of as the Maui ditches, each has its own 
name. The Hamakua Ditch was completed in 1877, being probably the 
first of its kind ever attempted anywhere. The newest and largest of these 
canals is known as the Wailoa Ditch. The Koolau Ditch is noted for its 
“ Ditch Trail ” scenery, being one of the regular feature trips of Maui. 
The two plantations which occupy the central plain cooperate in the use 
of the water from these irrigation canals. 

Water has also been supplied to the plain from a ditch into the West 
Maui Mountains, and from a system of wells on the lowlands from which 
water is pumped. 

Industries. — By means of the water conveyed to it by the 
irrigation aqueducts spoken of, the greater part of the central 
plain, which was once a barren, dust-swept region, has been 
converted into what is now the finest and largest sugar estate 
of the group — the Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Company 
Plantation. The fields of this plantation occupy the greater 
part of the plain, reaching in every direction as far as the eye 
can see. Scattered among these fields are 25 workmen’s villages 
(camps). The transportation system for getting the cane to the 
mill includes 75 miles of permanent railroad track and 8 miles 
of portable track, with 7 engines and 800 cane cars. 

In good years this estate produces 60,000 tons of sugar. The 
mill is located at Puunene, which is the name usually applied to 
the plantation. It is the largest sugar mill in the Hawaiian 
Islands. 



WAILUKU 


IOI 




Puunene Mill. 


Wailuku Town and Iao Valley. 








102 


MAUI 


The fields of the Maui Agricultural Company, which include 
the former Haiku and Paia plantations, occupy the higher lands 
of the plain and extend well up on the slopes of Haleakala. 
This is the third largest plantation of the group. 

These two plantations, which occupy the main part of the central plain 
area, are among the most progressive of the Territory, having originated 
many of the things that have placed the sugar industry of Hawaii second 
to none in the world. Electricity has been developed and not only applied 
to running extensive machine shops, but used for operating the main irri¬ 
gation pumps, all mill pumps and refrigerating plants, besides supplying 
lights for the hospitals, community houses, and the mill buildings generally. 

These two plantations have also been particularly active in welfare 
work, not only furnishing their laborers with attractive homes, but main¬ 
taining highly equipped hospitals, day nurseries, kindergartens, places of 
amusement and athletic equipment, such as baseball fields, tennis courts, 
bowling alleys, and the largest swimming tank in the Territory, at Puunene. 

A cement plant has been established on the beach below the mill at Paia. 
where Portland cement and a fine grade of lime are made for plantation use. 
The lime is made from sea sand, and the cement from powdered, blue-lava 
rock mixed with the proper ingredients, found on the island. 

A process for making denatured alcohol from molasses and mill refuse 
was developed at Paia, a distillery being established at the mill for this pur¬ 
pose. This alcohol makes an excellent motor fuel, in some ways superior 
to gasoline. Many of the sugar mills and pineapple canneries now use this 
process, and doubtless the manufacture of motor alcohol will become an 
important industry. 

The fields of the Wailuku Plantation occupy the eastern section of the 
central plain, fringing the West Maui Mountains, from which they draw an 
abundant water supply. 

Pineapples are grown in the area between the Maliko and Halehaku gulches. 
Canneries and can-making establishments are at Haiku and Pauwela. 

The upper slopes of Haleakala are used for grazing purposes. 

Kahikinui and Kaupo, being on the southern or sheltered slope of the 
mountain, are largely waste land; they are used chiefly for grazing purposes. 

The Kula part of Maui is entirely sheltered from the trade 
winds, having a climate that is somewhat different from other 
parts of the group. The black soil found here is a vegetable 
loam, indicating that this section was once covered with a heavy 
forest growth, which was cleared by settlers or destroyed by 
cattle. The Kula farms are located in this black-soil area, 
which is at an elevation of two or three thousand feet above sea 


WAILUKU AND MAKAWAO 


103 


level. Corn, beans, potatoes, and live stock are chiefly raised 
here. There is a sanitarium in Kula for the treatment of pul¬ 
monary diseases, the climate being well suited for this purpose. 

Towns and Transportation. — Kahului is the chief seaport 
for the island of Maui. The harbor is well protected by break¬ 
waters built out on each side of the bay, and has been enlarged 
by dredging, so that the deep-sea ships which enter here have 
ample sea room. Kahului is connected by railroad with all the 
principal places of Maui, being a busy port during the sugar 
season. It is the port of entry for the island, with a custom¬ 
house, a national bank, and some good stores; but Kahului is 
chiefly important as a shipping point. As the ground about the 
town is low and marshy, it is not a popular place of residence. 

Wailuku, a pretty town and a scenic center located in the 
mouth of the Iao Valley, is the western terminal of the Kahu¬ 
lui Railroad. Owing to its central location between East and 
West Maui, it was selected as the county seat. Many travelers 
come to Wailuku to visit the beautiful Iao gorge, where, by 
a short auto-drive, one may almost reach the heart of the 
wonderful West Maui Mountains. It was in the Iao gorge that 
Kamehameha defeated Kalanikupuli, the king of Oahu and 
Maui, in the famous battle of Wailuku, when it is said the 
stream ran red with blood. By this victory Kamehameha made 
himself master of Maui. 

Puunene is the central camp for the Hawaiian Commercial 
and Sugar Company Plantation, the mill, executive offices and 
plantation residences being located here. 

Paia is the community center for the Makawao district. The 
name is applied to a region which extends from the village on the 
main road near the sea beach to the point where the community 
house, church, and hospital are located, three miles above. In 
between lies the main plantation camp, where the mill, executive 
offices, and general store are located. The church, which is a 
memorial building, is a very beautiful structure. 

The Maunaolu Seminary for girls is situated a short dis¬ 
tance above the church. The Maui high school is located at 
Hamakuapoko. 


104 


MAUI 


Haiku is the eastern terminal of the Kahului Railroad, and the 
site of the Haiku Fruit and Packing Company’s pineapple 
cannery. It is a homestead section. 

The Makena landing is seldom used now, as the Kula farmers 
send their produce to Kahului for shipment. 

Kihei is the present landing for Maalaea Bay, though it is 
not used by the regular mail and passenger boats. 

Hana. — The Hana district is made up of the lands of Kahi- 
kinui, Kaupo, Kipahulu, Hana, and Koolau, in the eastern end 
of the island. It has a scattering and sparse population. 

Kahikinui and Kaupo, being on the southern or sheltered slope of the 
mountain, are largely waste land; they are used chiefly for grazing purposes. 

In contrast to that part of the district on Haleakala’s southern slope, 
the eastern and northern section has a heavy rainfall, with a climate some¬ 
what similar to parts of Hilo on Hawaii. 

There is a good driving road from Kipahulu to Nahiku, but beyond this 
there is only a trail. This trail extends along the greater part of the north¬ 
ern slope of Haleakala. Formerly this trail was near the seashore, but now 
it has been built higher up on the slope of the mountain, where the gulches 
are small; and so the deep valleys, with their fords which are dangerous 
in the rainy season, are avoided. The scenery along this trail is very fine. 

There are two small plantations in this district: the Kipahulu Sugar 
Company, and the Kaeleku Plantation at Hana. 

The principal place of the district is Hana town, which is pic¬ 
turesquely situated on the bay just back of Kauiki Head. The 
only good landing in the district is at Hana; large ships can 
find a safe anchorage in the bay here. 

Keanae is a village at the mouth of the Keanae Valley. It is built 
partly on the peninsula formed by the lava which flowed into the sea through 
Koolau gap. Kaupo is a small place just below Kaupo gap. 

During ancient times Hana Bay was a convenient landing for canoes com- * 
ing from Hawaii. In times of war Kauiki hill was used as a fort. A paved 
road was built around East Maui in the sixteenth century; on the hill¬ 
sides the flat cobblestones of which it was made were placed on edge. Por¬ 
tions of this ancient road are still in use. 


MOLOKAI 


Physical Features. -— Molokai is a long, narrow island lying 
east and west directly between Oahu and Maui. 

The island, which is about forty miles long by ten miles wide, 
can be included in a rectangle whose length is four times its width. 



Cliffs seen from Leper Settlement, Molokai. 


The north coast is bold and rugged, showing on the northeast 
ehd extraordinary cliffs like those found on the windward side 
of Hawaii and on the northwest coast of Kauai. 

An extensive barrier reef extends along the entire southern 
shore, which is low. At Kaunakakai, Kamalo, and Pukoo this 
reef has made excellent harbors. 



MOLOKAI 


106 



Longitude 


West from 


Green 


Lfa!ae o Ha Mo 


Puu Hoae 


Ha Lae o 
KaLaau 


Molokai is a double cone. The smaller cone, which lies 
toward the west, is dry, barren, and of no commercial value. 

The highest point of the larger, or eastern, section of the 
island is Kamakou, 4958 feet above sea level. This peak is at 
the south end of the narrow ridge dividing the Pelekunu and 
Wailau valleys. The unusual formation of this eastern section 
of the island must have been the result of a great fault, when the 
north side of the mountain broke away and slipped into the sea, 
forming cliffs along the coast. Since the fault, the region has 
been cut up by erosion, forming the inaccessible gulches of which 
the Wailau and Pelekunu are the largest. 

Industries. — Owing to the lack of water in its desirable sec¬ 
tions, Molokai is of no great commercial value. 

The larger part of the island is devoted to cattle raising. 
Taro is grown in Pelekunu and Wailau for the leper settlement. 

North and northeast of Kaunakakai, on the lands set apart 
for homesteading for Hawaiians by the “ Homes Commission 
Act,” a number of Hawaiian settlers have taken up homesteads. 

Formerly there were a great many fish ponds within the 
barrier reef along the southern shore of the island, but only a 















INDUSTRIES 


107 


few of the largest of these ponds 
are in use now. The inclosing 
walls of many have fallen to pieces, 
while others have become filled 
with debris washed down during 
storms. 

There is a good harbor at 
Kaunakakai, where a wharf half 
a mile long has been built. Vessels 
can lie alongside this wharf, except 
in very rough weather. There are 
good landings also at Kamalo and 
Pukoo. 

With the exception of the leper 
settlement at Kalaupapa, the 
places of Molokai are of no im¬ 
portance. Wailau and Pelekunu 
are accessible only from the sea. 

Kalaupapa. — At the base of the cliffs near the middle of the 
north side of Molokai there is a peninsula which juts out into the 
sea, being an outflow of lava from the Makanaloa crater. The 
bowl of this crater is at sea level, and is filled with sea water 
which has a mean depth of 300 feet, falling away to 750 feet in 
one spot. 

Located on this peninsula, midst rugged though not unat¬ 
tractive surroundings, is the leper settlement of Kalaupapa, cut 
off on the land side by cliffs 1500 feet high and on the other side 
by the sea. The peninsula contains 780 acres. Kalaupapa is 
the western section. The opposite, or eastern, side is called 
Kalawao. 

In 1923 there were 543 residents at the settlement, 455 of 
whom were lepers. While the lepers are allowed land which 
they can cultivate, they derive their chief support from the 
government, which does everything possible to alleviate their un¬ 
fortunate condition. Separate homes are maintained for the 
boys and girls of lepers, and for those who are helpless. There 
is also a general hospital and a nursery 


MOLOKAI 

Compiled from Gov’t Survey Maps 
Baldwin Alexander 

Civil Cnqineers 

MILES 



I 56*50 













io8 


MOLOKAI, LANAI 


The Federal Leprosy Investigation Station which was started 
at the settlement has been removed to Oahu, where it is operated 
in connection with the Kalihi Hospital with a trained bacteriol¬ 
ogist in charge. As the result of investigations at this station, 
supplemented by laboratory work at the University of Hawaii, 
remedies derived from chaulmoogra oil have been discovered 
which have brought about a cure for the dread disease. 



Leper Settlement at Kalaupapa. 


LANAI 

Lanai is on the lee side of West Maui, its nearest point being 
nine miles distant. The island contains 139 square miles. 

Lanai is a single cone 3400 feet high. On the west or lee 
side of the island there are cliffs three or four hundred feet high 
in places. This side of the island consists of a gently sloping 
plateau, or a succession of terraces. 




KAHOOLAWE 


109 


Being on the sheltered side of Maui, Lanai does not show 
much erosion, though there are a number of small gulches. 
There are some springs on the island and one running stream. 

An extensive plateau on the lee side of the island makes fine 
grazing land. Pineapples are now being planted on this plateau 
by the Hawaiian Pineapple Company of Oahu. An excellent 
harbor has been constructed at Kaumalapau on the southwestern 
side of the island. The fruit is shipped from this point to the 
cannery in Honolulu. 


KAHOOLAWE 

Kahoolawe is the smallest of the inhabited islands of the 
group, containing 69 square miles. 

The island consists of a single cone, 1472 feet high. It is 
almost entirely surrounded by cliffs, which are 200 feet high in 
places. 

Being on the protected side of Maui, the island presents an 
even, unbroken surface. There are no streams or even springs 
on the island, which has very little vegetation. 

Kahoolawe supports but a few head of cattle or sheep, and 
is of hardly any commercial value. 

There are usually a few herders living on the island. 


KAUAI 


Physical Features. — Kauai is at the extreme northwest end 
of the main group, and is the smallest of the four larger islands. 
Its area is 547 square miles, which is 51 square miles less than 
that of Oahu. 



Longitude 159* 40 ‘West from 159*30' Greenwich 159*20* 


KAUAI 


Compiled from Covt-Survey Mops 

Baldwin V Alexander Puolo 

Civil Engineer* 

MILES 

01234567 ft 


Kauai is nearly circular, and, with the exception of the Mana 
flat, which is composed of an uplifted coral reef, could be in¬ 
cluded in a circle whose radius is a line from the Nawiliwili 
lighthouse to a point in the head of the Wainiha Valley west of 
Waialeale. 


no 
















PHYSICAL FEATURES 


Hi 



The coast line of Kauai is very regular, containing no promi¬ 
nent capes, or bays of any extent. The so-called Haena Point 
is one of two spurs of the Wainiha ridge, forming a headland 
which is separated from the sea by the coastal plain which forms 
Haena flat. 

Hanalei Bay, which is as large as Kealakekua on Hawaii, is 
a typical Hawaiian inlet, with its protecting coral reef and 
passageway. Nawiliwili Bay has sea room for only small-sized 
vessels. 

The shore is low, except on the northwest, where there are 
high cliffs extending along the coast for fifteen miles. 

Owing to the depth of water near the shore, there are no coral 
reefs of any extent. It may be that there were such reefs off 
the coast of Kauai at one time, but the space between the reef 
and the shore has been filled with wash from the slopes above, 
thus adding to the coastal plain. 




112 


KAUAI 


Waialeale. — Kauai is made up of the mountain mass of 
Waialeale, 5250 feet high. From the summit the ridges radiate 
in all directions, though on the eastern side they are very 
short. 

The eastern and northern sides have been tremendously 
eroded, and on the east there is left scarcely a vestige of the 
original slope which is indicated by only a few short ridges. 
The opposite side is furrowed by a number of deep gorges, but 
the original contour is still preserved in the wide spaces be¬ 
tween them, which comprise the upper cane fields of the plan¬ 
tations on this side of the island. 

These ridges are low near the sea, and are gradually lost in 
the coastal plain, but become narrow and precipitous as the 
gulch extends inland, finally forming a veritable canyon. 

The Hoary Head ridge on the southeast is a part of the 
original backbone of the mountain which was intersected by 
the gap north of Koloa, through which the government road to 
Lihue passes. The highest point of this ridge is Hoary Head 
(Haupu), 2030 feet high. 

The Waimea gulch, which extends across the western slope 
of Waialeale, intersecting all the ridges on this side of the 
island, is not wholly the result of erosion, but originated in a 
fissure. 

Originally Waialeale must have been much higher than it is 
now. The soil has been washed from the summit and slopes to 
form the coastal plain which encircles Kauai, with the excep¬ 
tion of the northwest side. 

From the amount of erosion that has gone on, we infer that 
Kauai is the oldest island of the group. 

The section of the mountain between the Wainiha and Waimea 
valleys has a gentle slope towards the latter gulch, and is of a 
boggy nature. Were it not for the deep Koaieaie gorge which 
intersects it, this region would consist of almost a continuous 
swamp. Sections of this bog are covered with a thin turf, and 
are impassable. In ancient times, it is said, the northern section 
of the morass was crosssed by a path made of logs, but the 
passage was a hazardous one, for the logs were submerged in 


MOUNTAINS 


113 

places, and it was difficult to find this path in the dense fog 
which usually covers the mountain. 

This swamp is the reservoir which feeds all the streams that 
go to make up the Waimea, Makaweli, and Hanapepe rivers, 
making a splendid watershed for the lee side of the island, which 
is thus abundantly supplied with water even though it may not 
rain for months at a time. 

Owing to the difficult nature of the trip to the summit, which 
can be reached only by skirting the bog, Waialeale has seldom 
been ascended. For many years the true height of this moun¬ 
tain was not known. 

Napali. — The northwest side of Kauai, known as Napali, is 
similar to the windward or North Kohala section of Hawaii, and 
the northeast or Wailau and Pelekunu section of Molokai, show¬ 
ing remarkable cliffs of the same kind rising almost perpen¬ 
dicularly from the sea to a height of more than a thousand feet 
in some places. However, it is to be noticed in this case that 
the cliffs are on the northwest, where they are partly protected 
from the wind, instead of being on the windward side of the 
island as in the cases of Hawaii and Molokai. 

The gulches in this Napali section are short, ending at the 
ridge back of Waimea Valley. They show the effects of much 
erosion in many needle-like shafts and in wide amphitheaters at 
their heads. In that part of this section farthest south these 
gulches enter the sea through narrow, canyon-like walls, cutting 
off all view of the interior. 

The Kalalau Valley is the largest of the gulches in this region. 
In ancient times there were a large number of natives living 
here, but only a few huts remain at present. It was among the 
inaccessible ridges in the head of this gulch that the leper Koolau 
intrenched himself, eluding all efforts of the authorities to 
capture him. 

Some of the finest scenery in the Hawaiian Islands is to 
be found in this Napali region, but owing to its inaccessibility 
the place is seldom visited. There is a trail along the cliffs 
as far as Kalalau, but beyond this the journey to Mana must be 
made by a canoe trip of seven miles. 


KAUAI 


114 

Valleys. — Kauai is noted for its gulches, which are among the 
finest in the world. They are longer than the gulches on the 

other islands, and are 
very deep in their 
upper portions, being 
confined between can¬ 
yon-like walls. These 
gulches all contain 
large streams of water 
which, as they spread 
out on the low, flat 
lands of the coastal 
plain, are called 
rivers. 

So inaccessible is 
the interior of Kauai 
that its real nature 
was not known till it 
was penetrated by the 
plantation tunnels 
and ditches in search 
of water. So the 
Olokele tunnel dis¬ 
closed the wonderful 
canyon from which the ditch takes its name, and the Kauai 
Electric Company’s ditch opened up the magnificent scenery 
in the great Wainiha gorge. 

The Wainiha Valley is undoubtedly one of the finest of our 
Hawaiian gulches. This gulch has cut its way between perpen¬ 
dicular walls, several thousand feet high in its upper part, into 
the very heart of Waialeale, almost intersecting the ridge upon 
which the peak stands. 

The Hanalei Valley contains the largest stream of any of our 
Hawaiian gulches. It is navigable for boats and small steam 
launches for three miles. The river is used for transporting 
the rice grown in the gulch. 

Between the Hanalei and Wainiha valleys is the Lumahai 



The Olokele Canyon, Kauai. 




MOUNTAINS 


115 

River. The Lumahai is now spanned by a bridge, and so has 
disappeared the last of the Kauai ferries, which were a charac¬ 
teristic feature of travel in this region at one time. 

Wailua and Hanapepe are chiefly noted for their beautiful 
waterfalls. Boats can sail up the former for a distance of a mile 
and a half. The two branches of the Wailua unite near the sea, 
where the sea has cut its way through a ridge, forming a deep 
gorge. 

The Waimea Canyon plays an important part in the drainage 
of the west side of the island, intersecting the slope of the moun¬ 
tain on this side and turning all the streams through its own 
channel toward the south, thus depriving the extreme west¬ 
ern section of Kauai of any running streams of water. The 
scenery in this gorge has been compared with that of the Grand 
Canyon of the Colorado. 

The Makaweli gulch has worn away the intervening ridge 
near the sea, and is now a branch of the Waimea; the Olokele 
in turn is a branch of the Makaweli. 

Secondary or Tufa Cones. — There are a number of secondary 
cones on Kauai that have played an important part in the gen¬ 
eral topography of the island. These cones, like those on Oahu, 
were formed after the island had attained its present state of 
erosion. Some of the craters in these cones are used as reser¬ 
voirs by the plantations. 

The largest of these cones is the Kilohana crater west of 
Lihue, which is 1100 feet high. The material ejected from 
this crater covers all the region from the Hoary Head ridge to 
the Wailua River, burying beneath its debris the valleys and 
ridges that existed here at one time. The streams have been 
forced to cut new channels through this debris, flowing around 
the cone into the Wailua River on one side and the Huleia on 
the other. 

In a similar manner the valleys and ridges of the mountain 
spur on the northeast have been covered up by material ejected 
from craters in that region. The bowl in one of these craters is 
used as a reservoir by the Kilauea Plantation. 

At Koloa a dam has been constructed across the gap in an 


KAUAI 


116 

old cone, and the lake thus confined furnishes a fine water supply 
for the plantation. 

The cones near the Koloa landing mark the site of a compara¬ 
tively recent pahoehoe outbreak, which was the last eruption 
on Kauai. 

Haena Caves. — In the cliff at Haena there are a number of 
caves. Two of them are at sea level and are filled with water, 
that in one of them being entirely sweet. These caves are en¬ 
larged chambers of old lava tunnels, and evidently extend into 
the cliff for some distance. Owing to the water with which 
they are filled, it is impossible to explore them. A canoe has 
been placed in one of the caves for visitors. 

Barking Sands. — The barking sands consist of a range of 
wind-blown sand hills half a mile in length, extending from 
Nohili towards Polihale. When thoroughly dry, this sand be¬ 
comes resonant whenever its grains are set in motion. 

While these sands are called “ barking sands,” they emit a 
great variety of sounds, according to the method of friction; at 
times the sound resembles subterranean thunder; again it will 
be a sighing or a faint groaning as of some one in pain; as the 
wind forms little cascades, there is a rustling sound as from a 
lady’s silk skirts. The act of sliding down the sand hills pro¬ 
duces a sound having cadence periods; they were probably 
named for this. 

This phenomenon is a rare one, being common to only a few 
places in the world. It is said that there is a hill of barking 
sand at Makua on Oahu. In climate this latter place is similar to 
Mana, which is one of the hottest and driest spots of the group. 

Vegetation. — At one time Kauai was covered with forests 
on the north and east to the water’s edge, when it must have 
presented a very tropical appearance; this, taken together with 
the fact that the island is well watered in every part with running 
streams, undoubtedly gave it its sobriquet, “ The Garden 
Island.” 

Industries. —An almost continuous belt of sugar cane girds 
the island of Kauai from Mana to Kalihiwai on the north. 

All the lowlands of the coastal plain and valley bottoms are 


INDUSTRIES 


117 

planted with rice. The area on the north planted with rice ex¬ 
ceeds that of any other part of the group. Rice mills are located 
at Waimea and Hanalei. 

Pineapples are grown at Kapaa on the northeastern section 
of Kauai, and near Lawai in the southeastern part, where there 
are canneries. 

On the uplands of Kauai there are a number of cattle ranches. 
At Hanalei buffalo grass has been sown in the fields, greatly 
improving the pasture. 



Kauai, the “ Garden Island ” (Wainiha Valley;. 


The splendid water sources of Kauai have not only been uti¬ 
lized to bring under cultivation nearly all of the arable land on 
this island, but have been the incentive for a further step in the 
development of the sugar industry of the group, through the 
evolution of the tunnel-ditch and the application of electricity 
on a large scale to the running of plantation machinery. 

The Kekaha Plantation 1 completed a new ditch in 1907, bring¬ 
ing the Waimea Valley water into its fields. Previous to this 
only the land on the low coastal plain was cultivated, but now 
a portion of the upland is planted as well. Pumps are still used 
for irrigation in some of the lowlands. 

A great deal of made land has been added to this estate by 
the construction of dams, which caused the sediment carried in 
flood water to drop as its velocity was checked. 

Makaweli, which is one of the most prosperous plantations of 
the group, occupies what was once a dry kula , capable of sup¬ 
porting but a few head of horses and cattle. Water was first 
1 See Appendix A for list of plantations. 

GEOG. H. I. REV. — 6 




n8 


KAUAI 


secured from the Hanapepe Valley, and later from the Olokele 
canyon, which is the main branch of the Makaweli stream. 
These two ditches give an abundant supply of water even in the 
driest weather. The building of the Olokele ditch was a great 
engineering feat, the upper portion being a continuous tunnel 
for six miles within the cliff of the wonderful Olokele canyon. 

The McBryde Sugar Company secures its water supply from 
pumps in the Hanapepe Valley, which are operated by electricity. 
This electricity is developed by water power in the Wainiha 
gulch on the opposite side of the island, and conveyed to the 
pumps by a system of wires and poles thirty-five miles long. 
The cane land of this plantation extends from Hanapepe into 
Koloa. 

Koloa and Lihue are two of the oldest plantations on the 
Hawaiian Islands. The Lihue Plantation includes Hanamaulu. 

There is a separate mill at the latter place. Both plantations 
secure water from mountain streams and a system of reservoirs. 

At Kealia there are a number of flowing artesian wells. 

Kilauea is well watered, but the soil here is poor. 

Transportation. — Port Allen is the principal shipping point 
for the island of Kauai. The Kauai Railroad connects the Ma¬ 
kaweli, McBryde, and Koloa plantations with the harbor, where 
deep-sea vessels bring supplies, taking sugar as a return cargo. 
Port Allen is an open roadstead sheltered from the prevailing 
wind by a breakwater, but it has no protection from the southerly 
storm winds. 

Nawiliwili harbor, centrally located, is the chief mail and pas¬ 
senger port for the island. Plans are under way for building a 
breakwater and deepening the bay by dredging, thus making 
a good harbor. 

One of the best harbors on Kauai is the Ahukini landing in 
Hanamaulu Bay, about two and a half miles north of Nawiliwili, 
where vessels can lie alongside the wharf, or very nearly so. The 
Lihue plantation sugar is shipped from this place. 

Districts. — The districts of Kauai are Waimea, Koloa, Lihue, 
Kawaihau, and Hanalei (including also Napali). 

Waimea is the largest of these, occupying the whole western 


TRANSPORTATION 


119 

part of the island, which includes the entire dry section of Kauai. 
This district includes also the island of Niihau. 

Hanalei occupies the largest part of the northern section of 
the island; this is an extremely wet district, having as great a 
rainfall as Hilo on Hawaii. 

Places. — Lihue is the county seat of Kauai County. The 
village is scattered along both banks of the Nawiliwili gulch. 
The wireless station is located near the Nawiliwili landing. 



Waimea Village. 


Waimea village is at the mouth of the Waimea River. At one 
time there was a large native population here, when it was the 
capital of Kauai. Captain Cook first landed on the Hawaiian 
Islands at the mouth of the Waimea River. On the bluff east 
of the river mouth are the ruins of a Russian fort built in the 
year 1815, ostensibly for Kaumualii, the king of Kauai, but with 
the secret purpose of annexing the island to Russia. 

Koloa is a pretty village near the extreme southeast end of the 
island. The landing for the village is an open roadstead two 
miles away; this was the chief port for Kauai at one time. 




120 


KAUAI, NIIHAU 


Hanapepe, Eleele, and Kapaa are important villages. At each 
of the plantation mills there are also good-sized settlements. 

Hanalei is one of the most picturesque parts of the group. 
The view looking down into the gulch from the east bank, with 
the broad river winding through rice fields in the foreground 
and the bay and cloud-capped peaks and ridges in the distance, 
is one of unsurpassed beauty. 



Hanalei Valley, Kauai. 


There is a small settlement at Wainiha near the mouth of the 
river. The Kauai Electric Company’s power house is located 
two miles above in the gulch. 

NIIHAU 

Niihau is 17 miles west of Kauai, from which it is separated 
by a deep channel. The island contains 97 square miles, and 
its highest point is 1300 feet above sea level. 

This island has a high middle section, with a low plain at each 
end. On the north are precipitous cliffs where the highland 
joins the flat. Water is pumped from shallow wells. The 
island, which is a private estate, is devoted to sheep raising. 

The famous Niihau mats are made from a reed that grows in 
the marshes. This reed has a red base; otherwise it is similar 
to the rushes found on other parts of the group. The mats are 
made chiefly at Mana on Kauai. A small white shell is found 
on the beaches, which is strung into necklaces. 

With one or two exceptions, the people of Niihau are 
Hawaiians. The government maintains a school and road here. 





APPENDIX A 


OAHU 


CAPES 

BAYS AND 

TOWNS AND 

PLANTATIONS 


HARBORS 

VILLAGES 


Kahuku Point 




Honolulu Plantation 

Mokapu Point 

Honolulu Harbor 

Honolulu 

Co. 

Makapuu Point 

Pearl Harbor 

Watertown 

Oahu Sugar Co. 

Diamond Head 

Kaneohe Bay 

Aiea 

Ewa Plantation Co. 

Barber’s Point 

Waialua Bay 

Pearl City 

Waianae Co. 

Kaena Point 

Kahana Bay 

Waipahu 

Waialua Agricultural 




Ewa Mill 

Co. 

MOUNTAINS 

Waianae 

Kahuku Plantation 



HEIGHT 

Waialua 

Co. 

Kaala Waianae Range 

. 4030 feet 

Schofield Barracks Waimanalo Sugar 

Palikea Waianae Range 

. 3111 feet 

Wahiawa 

Co. 

Konahuanui 


. 3105 feet 

Kahuku 

Laie Plantation 

Lanihuli 


. 2775 feet 

Laie 


Tantalus (Puu Ohia) . 

. 2013 feet 

Hauula 


Olympus (Awawaloa) 

. 2447 feet 

Waikane 


Round Top (Ualakaa) 

. 1049 feet 

Heeia 


Punchbowl (Puowaena) 

. 498 feet 

Kaneohe 


Diamond Head (Leahi) 

. 761 feet 

Waimanalo 




HAWAH 


CAPES 


BAYS 

PLACES 

PLANTATIONS 

Upolu Point 

Hilo Bay 

(Kohala) 

(Kohala) 

Kumukahi Point 

Kealakekua Bay 

Kawaihae 

Puakea Plantation 

South Point (Ka 

Kawaihae Bay 

Mahukona 

Co. (Planters only) 

Lae) 

Kailua Bay 

Hawi 

Hawi Mill • and 



Kapaau 

Plantation 

MOUNTAINS 

Makapala 

Union Mill Co. 



HEIGHT 

Waimea 

Kohala Sugar Co. 

Mauna Kea 


. 13,825 feet 


Halawa Plantation 

Mauna Loa 


• 13,675 feet 

(Hamakua) 

Niulii Mill and Plan¬ 

Ilualalai . 


8,269 feet 

Waipio 

tation 

Ivohala Mountains 


. 5,489 feet 

Kukuihaele 


Crater of Kilauea 


4,000 feet 


{Continued on next page.) 


121 




122 


APPENDIX A 


PASSENGER 
AND MAIL 
LANDINGS 

Kawaihae 

Mahukona 

Laupahoehoe 

Hilo 

Honuapo 

Hoopuloa 

Hookena 

Napoopoo 

Keauhou 

Kailua 


CAPES 

Kahakuloa Point 
Kauiki Head 


HAWAII — Continued 


PLANTATION 

LANDINGS 

Kukuihaele 

Honokaa 

Paauhau 

Punaluu 


PLACES 

Honokaa 

Paauhau 

Paauilo 

Kukaiau 

(Hilo) 

Ookala 

Laupahoehoe 

Papaaloa 

Hakalau 

Honomu 

Onomea 

Papaikou 

Hilo Town 

(Puna) 

Keaau (Nine Miles) 

Mountain View 

Pahoa 

Kapoho 

Kalapana 

(Kau) 

Pahala 

Hilea 

Honuapo 

Naalehu 

Waiohinu 

(Kona) 

Papa 

Hookena 

Honaunau 

Napoopoo 

Kealakekua 

Konawaena 

Keauhou 

Holualoa 

Kailua 


PLANTATIONS 

(Hamakua) 
Pacific Sugar Mill 
Honokaa Sugar Co. 
Paauhau Sugar Plan¬ 
tation Co. 
Hamakua Mill Co. 

(Hilo and Puna) 

Kaiwiki Sugar Co. 
(Ookala) 

Laupahoehoe Sugar 
Co. 

Hakalau Plantation 
Co. 

Honomu Sugar Co. 
Pepeekeo Sugar Co. 
Onomea Sugar Co. 
Hilo Sugar Co. 

Hawaii Mill Co. 
Waiakea Mill Co. 
Olaa Sugar Co. 

(Kau and Kona) 
Hawaiian Agricul¬ 
tural Co. 

Hutchinson Sugar 
Plantation Co. 
Kona Development 
Co. 


BAYS 

Kahului 
Maalaea 
Hana Bay 


MAUI 

PLACES 

Lahaina 

Olowalu 

Waikapu 


PLANTATIONS 

(Lahaina) 
Pioneer Mill Co. 
Olowalu Co. 



APPENDIX A 

123 


MAUI — 

- Continued 



MOUNTAINS 

PLACES 

PLANTATIONS 


HEIGHT 



Haleakala 

. . . 10,032 feet 

Wailuku 

(Wailuku) 

Puu Kukui 

. . . 5,788 feet 

Waihee 

Wailuku Sugar Co. 

Eke 

4,500 feet 

Kahului 

Hawaiian Commer¬ 



Puunene 

cial and Sugar 



Spreckelsville 

Company Planta¬ 


LANDINGS 

Paia 

Haiku 

tion 

Kahului 

Kihei (Maalaea 

Hamakuapoko 

(Makawao) 

Keanae 

Bay) 

Makawao 

Maui Agricultural 

Nahiku 

Olowalu 

Pauwela 

Co. (Paia) 

Hana 

Lahaina (Mala) 

Huelo 


Kipahulu 

Kaanapali 

Keanae 

(Hana) 

Kaupo 

(Kekaa) 

Hana 

Kipahulu Sugar Co. 

Makena 

Honolua 

Kipahulu 

Kaeleku Plantation 



Kaupo 

Ulupalakua 

Kihei 

Co. 



KAUAI 


CAPES 

BAYS 

PLACES 

PLANTATIONS 

Haena Point 

Hanalei Bay 

Lihue 

Kilauea Sugar Plan¬ 


Hanamaulu Bay 

Kapaia 

tation Co. 


Nawiliwili Bay 

Hanamaulu 

Makee Sugar Co. 



Kapaa 

(Kealia) 



Kealia 

Lihue Plantation 


MOUNTAINS 

Anahola 

Co. 

. 

HEIGHT 

Kilauea 

Grove Farm Plan¬ 

Waialeale . 

. 5250 feet 

Kalihiwai 

tation (Planters 

Hoary Head (Haupu) . 2030 feet 

Hanalei 

only) 

Kilohana Crater . . 1100 feet 

Wainiha 

Koloa Sugar Co. 



Haena 

McBryde Sugar Co. 



Koloa 

Hawaiian Sugar Co. 


LANDINGS 

Lawai 

(Makaweli) 



Eleele 

Gay and Robinson 

Nawiliwili 

Wainiha 

Hanapepe 

(Planters only) 

Ahukini 

Koloa 

Makaweli 

Waimea Sugar Mill 

Kapaa 

Port Allen 

Waimea 

Co. 

Anahola 

Lawai 

Kekaha 

Kekaha Sugar Co. 

Kilauea 

Makaweli 

Mana 


Hanalei 

Waimea 




124 


APPENDIX B — APPENDIX C 


MOLOKAI OTHER ISLANDS 

MOUNTAINS ' LANDINGS height 

height Lanai . . 3400 feet 

Kamakou . 4958 feet Kaunakakai Kahoolawe . 1472 feet 

Olokui . . 4600 feet Kamalo Molokini . . 160 feet 

Pukoo Niihau . . 1300 feet 


APPENDIX B 

DISTANCES 

Honolulu to MILES 

Kalaupapa.52 

Lahaina.72 

Kahului.90 

Hana. 128 

Maalaea.86 

Makena.96 

Mahukona.134 

Kawaihae.144 

Kailua on Hawaii.157 

South Point (Ka Lae).233 

Honuapo.244 

Hilo (direct).192 

Hilo (via Kawaihae).230 

Nawiliwili.98 

Koloa ............. 102 

Waimea.. 

Hanalei.125 


APPENDIX C 

MILES WIDE 

Oahu Channel (Kaiwi).23 

Molokai Channel (Pailolo). g 

Maui Channel (Auau). 7 

Hawaii Channel (Alenuihaha).26 

Kauai Channel (Kaieie Waho).63 






























APPENDIX D — APPENDIX E 


125 


APPENDIX D 



Area in 
Square Miles 

Length in 
Miles 

Width in 
Miles 

Population 

1920 

Hawaii 

4015 

90 

74 

64,895 

Maui .... 

728 

46 

30 

36,080 

Molokai 

261 

40 

9 

1,784 

Lanai.... 

139 

21 

8 

185 

Kahoolawe. 

69 

14 

7 

3 

Oahu .... 

598 

46 

25 

123,496 

Kauai 

547 

25 

22 

29,247 

Niihau 

97 

18 

7 

191 

Midway 




3 i 

Total . 

6454 



255,912 


APPENDIX E 

REFERENCES TO HAWAIIAN GEOGRAPHY 
Advertiser, Daily , Jubilee Number, July 2, 1906. 

Agricultural Resources and Capabilities of Hawaii, Wm. C. Stubbs, Ph.D. 
Annexation of Hawaii, Hawaii's Young People, September, 1898. 

Arbor Day, Origin of, Hawaii's Young People, April, 1901. 

Birds, Hawaiian, Henshaw, Hawaiian Annual, 1902. 

Cold Current System of the Pacific, Dr Bishop, Hawaiian Annual, 1905, page 74. 
Commercial Pacific Cable, Hawaiian Annual, 1904. 

Cook, Captain, Hawaii's Young People, May, 1900.. 

Feather Cloaks of Kamehameha, Hawaii's Young People, May, 1900. 

Feather Work, Hawaiian, Hawaii's Young People, November-December, 1900. 
Fire, Hawaiian Traditions of Origin of, Hawaii's Young People , October, 1900. 
Flora of Hawaiian Islands, Hillebrand. 

Geology of Oahu, Dr. Bishop, Hawaiian Annual, 1901, page 49. 

Geology of Oahu, Dr. Hitchcock. 

Government of T. H., Synopsis of, Hawaii's Young People, October, 1907. 
Haleakala, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, April, 1898 (1899 on outside 
cover). 






















126 


APPENDIX F 


Haleakala, Through, on Foot, Sam R. Dowdle, Hawaii's Young People, September- 
October, 1901. 

Hawaii, Geography of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, September, 1901 
(begins). 

Hawaii, Mountains of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, October, 1901. 
Hawaiian Annual, bound volumes. 

Hawaiian Islands, How Formed, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, February, 
1898 (1899 on outside cover). 

Kapa Beating, Hawaii's Young People, March, 1899 (1898 on inside). 

Kapa Making, Hawaii's Young People, October, 1900. 

Kilauea, Crater of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, November, 1900. 
Land Shells of the Hawaiian Islands, D. D. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, May, 
1900. 

Lava Flow of 1899, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, March-May, 1900. 
Lava Flows of Hawaii, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, January, 1902. 
Lavas and Soils of the Hawaiian Islands, Walter Maxwell. 

Maui, Geography of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, February-November, 
1899. 

Maui, Geography Stories of, C. W. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, November, 
1899. 

Maui, Mountains of, D. D. Baldwin, Hawaii's Young People, May-June, 1901. 
Maui and Alae Birds, Harriet F. Coan, Hawaii's Young People, October, 1897. 
Maui and Sun, Hawaii's Young People, June, 1897. 

Maui Snaring Sun, Hawaii's Young People, January, 1901. 

Natural History of Hawaii, W. A. Bryan. 

Planter's Monthly, bound volumes. 

Poi Making, Hawaii's Young People, September, 1900. 

Sandal Wood Trade, Hawaiian Annual , 1905. 

States and Territories, Difference between, Hawaii's Young People, November, 
1898. 

Sugar: Its Status and Development, L. A. Thurston, Jubilee Number Advertiser, 
page 31. 

Trees, Historical Hawaiian, Hawaii's Young People, April, 1901. 

Umi, Story of, Dr. Alexander, Hawaii's Young People , April, 1897. 

Vancouver, Captain George, Hawaii's Young People, September, 1900. 

Waipio and Waimanu, Hawaiian Annual, 1901, page 143. 


APPENDIX F 

PRONUNCIATION OF HAWAIIAN WORDS 

A is sounded as in father, e as in they, i as in marine, 0 as in note, u as in rwle 
or as 00 in moon. 

Ai when sounded as a diphthong resembles the English ay in the word aye (yes), 
or the English i in b/te; and an resembles the English ou in loud. 

The accent of most of the words in the Hawaiian language is on the penult (the 
syllable next to the last). A few of the proper names are accented on the final 
syllable, as Hanapepe'j -Kamalo'. Waikiki', etc. W is sometimes sounded as v. 


INDEX 


Aa, io, ii 
A hukini, 118 
Aiea, 43, 49 

Alcohol, manufacture of, 28, 102 
Allen, Port, 118 
Animals of group, 16 
Archipelago, Hawaiian, 7 
Arid regions of Hawaii, 65 
Area and population, see Appendix D, 125 
Artesian wells, 
on Kauai, 42 
on Oahu, 41, 42 

Bagasse, 

for fuel, 25; in making paper, 28 
Bananas, 25, 45 
Barking sands, 116 
Bays, 

of group, Appendix A, 121-124 
of Hawaii, 51, 121 
Beaches of Hawaii, 51 
Birds of group, 17 
Bishop Museum, 49 

Cable station, Oahu, 28, 46 
Capes of group, Appendix A, 121-T24 
Castner, Camp, 45,5^ 

Cement, manufacture of, 
at Honolulu, 25 
at Paia, 102 

Channels of group, see Appendix C, 124 

City of Refuge, 84, 86 

Cliffs, 

of group, 10 
of Hawaii, 51 
Climate, 
of group, 13-14 
of Hawaii, 64-65 
temperature, 13 
trade winds, 13 


Coffee industry, 
of group,,.25 
of Hawaii, 66, 71, 82 
Commerce of group, 28, 47 
Communication, see Railroads, Wireless 
Telegraph 

Cook, Captain, 28, 82, 86, 119 
Coral, 

on Hawaii, 51 
on Kauai, hi 
on Maui, 87 
on Molakai, 105 
on Oahu, 34-35 
Craters, 

of Kauai, 115-116 
of Hawaii, 58-62 
of Maui, 90-97 

“Crossroads of the Pacific,” 48 
Counties of group, 31 

Diamond Head, 40, 48 
Distances from Honolulu, see Appendix 
B, 124 
Districts, 
of Hawaii, 68 
of Oahu, 46 
Ditches, see Irrigation 
Dowsett Reef, 7 
Drainage, on Oahu, 41-42 

Education in group, 31 
Eke craters, 90 
Electricity, 

development on Kauai, 118, 120 
used at Paia, 102 
used at Puunene, 102 
used in sugar mills, 25 
Eleele, 120 
Ewa Mill, 42, 49 



INDEX 


128 

Experiment stations, 
federal, 18 

Planters’ Association, 22 
territorial, 18 

Fertilizer works, 25 
Fishing industry, 
of group, 25 
of Hawaii, 68 
of Molokai, 106-107 
of Oahu, 45 
Fish ponds, 45, 106 
Forest belt of Hawaii, 65-66 
Forests of group, 14-16 
French Frigates Shoal, 7 

“Garden Island,” 116 
Gardner Island, 7 
Glenwood, 74, 78 
Government of group, 30-31 
Grazing industry, 
of group, 25 
of Hawaii, 68 
of Kauai, 117 
of Maui, 104 
of Oahu, 45 

Haena caves, 116 
Haiku, 104 
Hakalau, 76 
Haleakala, 91-97 
Hamakua, 70-72 
Hamakuapoko, 103 
Hana, 

district, 104 
town, 104 
Hanalei, 120 
Hanalei Bay, m 
Hanalei Valley, 114 
Hanapepe, 120 
Harbors, see list p. 121 
Hawaii, 51-86 
area, 51, 125 
climate, 64 
districts, 68 
industries, 66 
physical features, 51 
political map, 52-53 
relief map, 56-57 
vegetation, 65 
youngest island, 10 


Hawaii National Park, 62 
Hawaiian Archipelago, 7 
Hawaiian Islands, 7-31 
animals, 16-17 
climate, 13-14 
commerce, 28 
education, 31 
government, 30-31 
group, 7, 10 
history, 28-30 
industries, 18-25 
insects, 18 
map, 8-9 
population, 30 
soil, 11-13 
surface features, 10 
vegetation, 14-16 
Hawi, 70 

Ileiau at Kawaihae, 69; at Wahaula, 
78 

Hiilawe Fall, 54 
Hilea Mill, 80 
Hilo, 65 

North Hilo, 72-76 
South Hilo, 72-76 
Hilo Boys’ Boarding School, 75 
History of group, 28-30 
Holualoa, 82 
Honaunau, 84, 86 
Honokaa, 71 
Honolua, 98 
Honolulu, 35, 46-48, 50 
Honolulu Harbor, 35, 40, 47, 50 
Honomu, 73, 76 
Honuapo, 80 
Hookena, 84 
Hoonaunau, 84 
Hualalai, 57 

Humuula Sheep Station, 62 

Iao Valley, 90, 103 
Industries, 
of group, 18-25 
of Hawaii, 66-68 
of Maui, 100-103 
of Oahu, 42-45 
Insects of group, 18 
Irrigation, 
on group, 22 
on Hawaii, 69 




INDEX 


129 


Irrigation — Continued 
on Kauai, 117-n J 
on Maui, 100 
on Oahu, 42 
Isthmus, Maui, 97 

Kaawaloa, 86 
Kahoolawe, 109 
Kahuku, 50 
Kahului, 103 
Kailua, 82 
Kalapana, 78 
Kalaupapa, 107 
Kalawao, 107 
Kamehameha, Fort, 50 
Kamehameha I, 29, 41, 69, 70, 72, 103 
Kamehameha Schools, 31, 49 
Kapaa, 120 
Kapaau, 70 
Kapapala, 80 
Kapoho, 78 
Kau, 78-80 
Kauai, 110-120 
area, no, 125 
districts, 118-119 
industries, 116-118 
oldest island, 10 
physical features, 110-116 
places, 119-120 
political map, no 
relief map, m 
transportation, 118-119 
vegetation, 116 
Kaula, 7 
Kaunakakai, 107 
Kaupo, 104 
Kawaihae, 68, 69 
heiau of Puukohola, 69 
Keaau, 78 
Kealakekua, 84 
Kealakekua Bay, 82, 86 
Keanae, 104 
Keanakakoi quarry, 57 
“ Key of the Pacific,” 10 
Kihei, 104 
Kilauea, 61-62 
Kohala, 68, 70 
North Kohala, 69-70 
South Kohala, 68-69 
Kohala Ditch, 69 


Kohala Mountains, 53-55, 69 
Kohala Seminary, 70 
Kona, North and South, 80-86 
Konawaena, 82 
Koolau Range, 38-41 
Kukuihaele, 71, 72 
Kula, 102, 103 
Kula Sanitorium, 103 

Lahaina, 98-99 
district, 97-99 
Lahainaluna Seminary, 99 
Laie, 50 
Lanai, 108-109 
Land shells, 17 
Landings, see list pp. 121-124 
Latitude of group, 7 
Laupahoehoe, 73 
Lava, 
aa, 10 

flows of Hawaii, 62-64 
kinds, 10, 11 
pahoehoe, 10, n 
tree casts of Puna, 78 
tufa, 10, 12 
tunnels, 72, 75 
Laysan Island, 7 
Lehua, 7 

Leper settlement, 107-108 
Leprosy Investigation Station, 108 
Lihue, 118, 119 
district, 118 
Lime-making, 
at Honolulu, 25, 45 
at Paia, 102 
on Oahu, 45 
Lisianski Island, 7 
Longitude of group, 7 
Loulu palms, 66 

Machine shops in mills, 25 
Magnetic Station, United States, 50 
Mahukona, 70 
Makawao district, 99-100 
Makaweli, 118 
Makena, 104 

Manufacturing of group, 25 
Maro Reef, 7 
Maui, 87-104 
area, 87, 125 




13 ° 


INDEX 


Maui — Continued 
districts, 97 
industries, 100-103 
irrigation, 100 

map, political, 88-89; relief, 92-93 
physical features, 87 
plantations, 98, 100, 102, 104 
towns, 103-104 
transportation, 103, 104 
Maui, East, 91-97 
Maui Mountains, West, 87-91, 100 
Mauna Kea, 55-57 
Mauna Loa, 58-59, 62, 63 
national park area, 59 
Midway Island, 7 
Military posts on Oahu, 50 
Mokuaweoweo, 58-59, 64 
national park area, 59 
Molokai, 105-108 
area, 125 

industries, 106-107 
leper settlement, 107-108 
map, 106-107 
physical features, 105-106 
Molokini, 7 

Mormon settlement, 50 
Mountain View, 78 

Mountains of group, 10: see list pp. 

121-124 

Naalehu, 80 
Napali, 113 
Napoopoo, 82, 84, 86 
National park areas, 

Haleakala, 91 
Hawaii, 62 
Kilauea, 61-62 
Mauna Loa, 59, 62 
Mokuaweoweo, 59, 62 
Nawiliwili, 118 
Nawiliwili Bay, hi 
N ecker Island, 7 
Nihoa (Bird Island), 7 
Niihau, 120 

Oahu, 34-50 
area, 34, 125 
artesian wells, 41, 42 
districts, 46 

important places, 46-50 


Oahu —• Continued 
industries, 42-45 
irrigation, 41-42 
military posts, 50 
physical features, 34-41 
political map, 32-33 
relief map, 36-37 

transportation, communication, 45, 46 
Oahu College, 31 
Ocean Island, 7 
Olaa, 76-78 

Olokele Canyon, 114; ditch, 118 
Organic Act, 29-30 

Paauhau, 71 

Paauilo, 70, 71 

Pacific Ocean, map of, 26-27 

Pahala, 80 

Pahoa, 76, 78 

Pahoehoe, 10, n 

Paia, 102 

Maui Agricultural Company, 102 
Pali, Nuuanu, 39, 40, 49 
Papaikau, 73 

Paper made from bagasse, 28 
“Paradise of the Pacific,” 14 
Parker Ranch, 68 
Pearl and Hermes Reef, 7 
Pearl City, 49 
Pearl Harbor, 29, 35, 50 
naval station, 50 
wireless station, 46 
Pepeekeo, 76 
Pineapple industry, 
of group, 25 
of Hawaii, 70 
of Kauai, 117 
of Maui, 98, 104 
of Oahu, 44 

Plains of group, 40, 53, 62, 65, 100 
Plantations, see Appendix A, 121-124 
Plateaus, see Plains 
Population, 
of group, 30 
of Honolulu, 46 
see table p. 125 
Port Allen, 118 

Pronunciation of Hawaiian words, see 
Appendix F, 126 
Puna, 65, 68, 76, 78 



INDEX 


131 


Punaluu, 80 
Punchbowl, 41 
Puunene, ioo, 102, 103 
Hawaiian Commercial and Sugar Co., 
100 

Railroads, 
of Hawaii, 70, 74 
of Kauai, 118 
of Maui, 103 
of Oahu, 45 
of plantations, 22 
Rainfall, 
of Hawaii, 65 
of Oahu, 41 
“Rainy City,” 65 
Reciprocity Treaty, 29 
References to Hawaiian Geography, see 
Appendix E, 125-126 
Refuge, City of, 84, 86 
Rice industry, 
of group, 25 
of Hawaii, 68 
of Kauai, 117 
of Oahu, 44 

Rock formation of group, 10 

Salt Lake Crater, 41 
Sand dunes, 97 
Sandalwood, 66 
Sandstone, 10, 11 
Schofield Barracks, 45, 50 
Schools, 
of group, 31 
of Oahu, 48, 50 
Shafter, Fort, 50 
Soil, 

lava, 11-12 
sedimentary, 12 
tufa, 12 

Steamship routes, trans-Pacific, 28, 47 
Stock food, manufacture of, 28 
Sugar industry, 
of group, 18-22 
of Hawaii, 66, 71, 78, 80, 82 
of Maui, 100-102 
of Oahu, 42-44 
Sugar refining 18, 43, 44 

Table-lands of Hawaii, 62 


Taro, 68 
Temperature, 13 
Tobacco, 82 

Towns and villages, 121-124 
Trade winds, 13 
Transportation, see Railroads 
Tufa, 10, 12 
cones, 40-41, 115-116 

United States Magnetic Station, 50 
University of Hawaii, 31 

Valleys of group, 10, 39, 40, 54-55 
Vegetable mold on Olaa, 12 
Vegetation, 
of group, 14-16 
of Hawaii, 65-66 
Volcanic formation of group, 10 
Volcanoes, see Kilauea, Mokuaweoweo 

Wahiawa, 42, 44, 45; dam, 42-43 
Waiahole Tunnel, 42 
Waialeale Mountain, 112-113 
Waialua, 43, 46, 50 
Waianae, 50 

Waianae Range, 38, 40, 41, 45 
Waiau, Lake, 57 
Waikiki, 48, 50 
Wailuku, 103 
battle, 103 
district, 99-100 
Waimanu, 68 
Waimanu Valley, 53-54 
Waimea, 68, 118 
Waimea Canyon, 115 
Waimea River, 113 
Waimea Valley, 112, 113 
Wainiha, 120 
Wainiha Valley, 112, 114 
Waiohinu, 80 
Waipahu, 43, 45, 49 
Waipio, 68, 71, 72 
Waipio Valley, 53-54 
Watertown, 50 

West Maui Mountains, 87-91 
Wireless telegraph stations, 
on Hawaii, 68 
on Kauai, 119 
on Maui, 99 
on Oahu, 28, 46, 50 

































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































